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Brinkman Swirl Finder from here on Autogeek.net or from Pinnaclewax.com- Pinnacle Car Care Products

4-5 with the finishing polish. I found 3 works best for the BFWD.

Here's what I would do. I would create a test section on my hood. It would be about 1/6th of the hood. I would start with the white pad and the finishing polish, doing about five section passes. If the test section looked good I would then do that across the whole car. If it didn't look...

I think he means a real car wash shampoo. Something designed specifically to wash cars with. If you're doing correction across the whole car, then your correction step will remove whatever was or sealant is already on the car.

I split my towels into three loads. Polish/compound load, Washing/drying load and wheel/doorjamb/interior load. The third load is essentially all towels that have been downgraded from paint duty.

You've got your black and white pads mixed up. You want to use the finishing polish with the white pad and the BFWD with the black pad. You might be able to get away with using the finishing polish with the black pad. It depends on how well the D300 finishes. You certainly don't want to use...

It comes signed by the man himself.

Ok, question. When using a foam gun, do you still rinse your mitt off after each panel in a rinse bucket with a grit guard? Do you still need a wash bucket?

In Mike's book, he says the next step if the white pad/Ultra Fine 1 doesn't work is to start a new test section with the white pad/XMT 3. If that still doesn't work, then you should do a third test section with the orange pad. I don't have the book in front of me, but I believe once you move...

Awesome, looks great!

Here we go! Love the paper packing. Lots better than those dang peanuts. The haul:

Unpacking photos

Unpacking photos

My order is here! Well, it's not "here" as I'm at work, but the wife just took it in off of the door step.

So was there anything that you took from those jobs that you think makes you a better detailer?

Awesome picture. Why did they call you "Crash"?

I would say any light marring introduced by the colorchip wipe could probably be removed by hand after the paint has cured.

I'm interested in this too. Being that it's coated leather, I don't think the conditioner is the right way to go. :confused:

Here's what Dr. Colorchip has to say about detailing: "Wash & dry the vehicle. Do any "hard" detailing first, like wet-sanding, compounding and buffing. Then use our paint. Follow up with standard waxing a week later. Refrain from using a circular buffing wheel and wool pad for at least 30...

Going new certainly has its advantages. Piece of mind is a huge plus. You know exactly how the car is cared for from day one. You can also get exactly what you're looking for and aren't subject to the whims of the market. If you go used then when you go to sell you probably won't get as much...