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I have an interesting problem on a long term project car for a customer. I used PBL original coating on it after several weeks of correction off and on. I worked on it in between my other projects so I ended up coating a couple panels at a time. At any rate, I used the booster on the car a...

I liked the V36 and V38 until I tried other polishes that could do better and in one step. HD have similarly priced products and work better for scratch removal. I've been happy with Menzerna as well. Stated from experience and not hear-say....

So, add more solution to increase cleaning strength? Bloody miracle....haha

Depends on how fancy you want to get. You could do a "basic" treatment which would consist of washing windshield, clay, and apply an OTC glass product. An upsell from that would be doing those steps I mentioned but also polish the glass to get it super clean/smooth (not to remove scratches) and...

The headlight restoration is a visual and functional enhancement. Why not add windshield polishing/coating as a package deal?

A buddy of mine goes to the auctions to flip cars when the mechanical works slows down. He sticks to a certain price range most of the time and they sell for $2000-3000. Over the years he has created a following from locals and sells the cars within days or even hours. At this price range a...

:iagree: The prep work is what makes it a restoration and not a quick fix. I did the trim on my wife's cars and washed it several times with APC and then did a light polish before using a final paint cleanser polish. My LSP choice was DLux from CarPro. Around 4 months and it's still going...

I ended up leaving #7 on for a little longer as well since my schedule changed. I used a waterless wash mix to help remove the dried sections. I would apply M#7 by hand. Also I would top a section with a basic wax and see if you're happy with it, before moving on to anything that has abrasives.

I'm hoping more people will understand the importance of quality polishing. All too often I chat with a customer who thinks only using a wax will enhance their neglected paint.

Yes the pads turned green. There was a decent amount of paint removed with the M#7 soak, so I didn't want to go as aggressive as I did. I tried every combination from least aggressive to most on different spots. Only thing I didn't try was a rotary and wool pad (which I never would on this...

If you do have an unpleasant experience, don't let it deter you. Learning moments happen to everyone. Nobody was born a professional. Go a quarter to half throttle on the trigger as you get adjusted to it. Also try to keep the pad flat, or it will want to "walk" away on you.

I read your articles word for word. I even gave a shout out to you on Instagram and Facebook for you sharing your single stage restoration technique. I believe it was the pic which is currently my avatar. Anyways I typically don't comment on the older articles because they're a few years old...

I can't comment on the temperature aspect, but I used circular motions where I could to apply it. I imagined my hand being the buffing"pad" and used over lapping circular motions. I did my best to be consistent so the paint is as level as possible all the way around.

Very clean. Really like how the color changes in and out of the sun.

This is the whole essence of my question. The paint shouldn't be as hard as it is. I'm trying to find out why it reacts like it does. It's going against everything that I've read about single stage paint.

My reason for wanting to know more about the paint is because it's unusually hard on this car. In one of Mike P. articles, it discussed how soft single stage paint is, however the white paint can be very hard due to the mix of titanium dioxide. I'm wondering if that's why these swirls won't...

Hello all, I am trying to find out if the color Channel green or Monterey green for a 1950 Plymouth Suburban is actually single stage white that's tinted one of these two shades of green. It appears the car has been repainted, but it's been painted to match the original single stage color...

Just take your time with cleaning the vehicle before polishing. I would add some sort of mechanical decon to your list. Also you can never have too many towels. Before cutting into your paint, I'd get a feel for the Flex by using the finishing pad and sealant on a section of the already...

I've seen how quick bird shite will etch through, so I'd use any paint safe method at this point, and then be gentle later... You can get a Meguiars clay and lube kit from any of those stores.