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It's kinda your choice. Many feel that Dawn is necessary, but the polishing will obviously strip off any wax or sealant. Some say you should strip with Dawn or something else so you don't "clog" your pad with the old wax/sealant. However, seeing as these coatings are literally microns thick...

I've tried Megs, DP, Simple Green, Zep, APC and Griot's HD. Of them all, the Griot's gives the best results simply dissolving road crud and brake dust, rinses clean and you use very little.

Why is it one of the top sites? As a couple law enforcement friends put it : eBay, America's fence :laughing:. Hey, I've used it. But, as others have said, you need to be real careful. Mostly I've delt with sellers that are authorized distributors or retailers for the products and are...

I never suggested an APC. I suggest a soaking wash with Gold Class.

This was asked on another thread. IIRC, the answer is yes, it has some. However, the amount you're putting on a car is so minimal that I'd really question how effective it is. The same would apply to any other QD. You're gonna get most of your protection from the inhibitors in the paint and...

I'd be VERY CAREFUL using IPA on paint. IPA is a solvent for the clear. A guy in another thread just dissolved a spot of clear w/ IPA trying to remove tree sap. Use it if you wish, just realize that you're assuming a risk if you do.

Give the car a good soaking with a good sudsy car wash like Meg's Gold Class and then clay. 205 is water soluable, but you let it dry rock hard. It's gonna be like trying to get cement off. May take a few soakings. Good luck, and don't do that again.

:iagree: I've never run into anything that 105/UC and an orange pad wouldn't tackle, including my nephew's pretty trashed 04 Ion that was run thru swirl-o-matics. I'd get a 6 pack of 5.5 flat pads - 2 orange, 2 white, 1 black/grey and 1 blue. If you decide you're gonna "jewel" the finish...

Yessir! Buy a rotary polisher that you don't know how to use from an eBay seller with no return priviledge, no box and no warranty card. Yuppers, that's just brilliant :dblthumb2:.

And they probably are - IN THEIR CURED STATE. But until that polymerization takes place they will still be soluable in the correct mixture, otherwise they wouldn't be usable. The trick is to find the correct cleaning product(s) and don't allow the pad to dry out. For example, I can say...

Yeah, you're probably right. The best approach might be to simply say that he does do high-end warranty jobs but he's overscheduled right now and just can't fit it in. Then mention he's heard XXX dealership does a 5 year no-wax sealant, doesn't know how well it works, but you might wanna check...

Living in Carlisle, PA - the car show capital of the Northeast - I know quite a few collector car guys. As one of them once quipped: "There is only one truly scratch-free car cover. It's called a garage."

Agree Mike. HOWEVER (that's a big however), most of today's sealants and waxes are water-based. As such, they are soluable until they cure. It may be more difficult than simply rinsing with water but you can get them clean. If you cannot get them truly clean, then pad cleaning products are...

You could go thru the whole route of providing a warranty given required proper maintenance (by you) and exclusions for normal wear and tear, etc, etc. In other words, give him a warranty that is no different that the dealerships provide for their "no wax for 5 years" nonsense. Just be aware...

+1. I just clean the pads.

I've used UC and UP by hand in the past and was never really satisfied with the results, except around door handles. I still use it by hand for that. And, by machine they do a great job :dblthumb2:.

My personal favorite is still what Lexus recommends for their leather: Woolite diluted 10:1. I use it at 16:1 because I felt the 10:1 was a little too soapy. Works great and cost is minimal. Edited to Add: If you want a decent leather conditioner that's not slippery, I use the Lexus one...

Umm, why don't you just polish out the swirls so you don't have to hide them? It's probably just as easy.

But that's according to the owner, not the guy who did the flames. And what's "not a lot of clear"? One coat, two coats, three? And how thick was each coat? You get my point? Without talking to who did the paint you won't know and are left with a guess. It's not gonna kill you to pick up...

+1 on the Werner. I have the fiberglass one. Love it. But, I don't use it for cars. For that I have an old fold-out wood 3 stepper that I got at auction for like 5 bucks.