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I would recommend you visually inspect it BEFORE you take it off the lot. I also recommend you visit the dealer before the car is delivered and explain you do not want it washed, buffed, vacuumed, wiped or prep'ed in any manner - just remove the plastic. Tell him you will be inspecting the car...

Nice clean design. Reduce the border at top so more of your intro pargraph shows before the user has to scroll. Web studies show that you need to grab the user's attention in the first 5 seconds or they won't read further. Run your text thru a spelling and grammar checker, there are a few...

I'll agree with what's been said already. UC is my choice for harder clears (like GM) or less expensive cars. I don't notice much diff in cut compared to 105, but then I'm using a DA not a rotary or a Flex. I suspect that makes a BIG difference. Used properly, I have not found anything that...

Color doesn't matter very much. What does matter is your technique. Virtually all of the polishes will produce excellent results if you have your process down and your technique is correct. I will say that on harder domestic clears I prefer to start with Megs UC. And I prefer UC over 205...

Like Bobby and CD said, yes. I use it on all the seals and love it. Apply sparingly and you don't need to buff. It lasts for freaking ever - I did our cars 2 months ago and the seals still look the same as the day I did them. Ditto with under the hood. Still has the gloss from doing it...

I have no doubt that the DA MF system can do re-paints if you know what you're doing and the re-paint was a quality job. Therein lies the prob. Even if you were fairly experienced, the MF system may not do a good job because the re-paint wasn't terribly good. What would I do? Might as well...

First, what is the car you're trying to polish? While all polishes and pads will do an excellent job with the right technique, some combos do make the job eaiser. For example, I (and others here) do like the diminishing abrasives in Wolfgang/Menzerna polishes for softer paints like on a Lexus...

:iagree: I'd add a bit to Bobby's list. First, is to recommend the Souveran for wax since this is a show car. Souveran is a gorgeous wax but it's not known for longevity. But since you say your baby is only a show car, that's not an issue. Second, get some Ultima Trim and Tire Guard for...

Hard to say what will work w/o seeing the car. Since you say the rear spoiler is already oxidized, it might be best to take this to a pro in your area. Your gonna end up spending at least $250 for products, pads and a polisher, so why not have a pro do the buff out or at least look at it? If...

Bobby, Def try it. I've been amazed by the performance. Now going on 2 months and after a wash, it looks like the day it was applied. The coating is EXTREMELY hydrophobic... "dirt -phobic" too! And bugs wipe right off with a little QD or Avi's pref dilute IPA (I use about 20%). Be sure...

Hey Bro, Tried to PM bu your mailbox is full. Applicator on its way today. Later dude.

Hmm, never thought of that. GC is my fav regular car wash. How do you compare it to a NR mixed to lube or QD strength.

i use one of the chenille (what you called dread0 mf mitts from Wally World. i also use plain mf towels. No need to wet the car first. Just make sure your mitt or mf is dripping wet. Megs waffle weave should be fine. Megs makes excellent products. I prefer the fluffy drying towels. but...

That's what QD is made for. Depends on how dirty it is.

You'll like the DP. I can wash a regular sedan with about 1.5 gal. That includes door, truck and hood jams and tires and wheel wells. Do the outside surfaces of the car first. I ususally start with the roof to get it out of the way, then go on to hood and trunk. Dry with a plush mf drying...

Depends on where you live. If you have acid rain, it's probably worse than the ground water. If you have hard water, it's probably worse than the rain. Either way, it's a good idea to wash your car or give it a good wipedown with QD after a rain. Rain still has dirt particles in it. That's...

Yes, I know exactly what you mean. I did this first time I used it. You used way too much. When you use too much, it doesn't cure and remains tacky. You have to buff the crap out of it for a day or two to get rid of the excess. Next time, prime you pad with like 4 drops. Apply to a panel...

Get some Optimum No-Rinse or DP No-Rinse car wash. Stop at Wally World, KMart or your local grocery and pick up 3 gal of distilled water. It's like a buck a gallon. Wash the car out of the sun using the NR and drying with a plush mf drying towel one panel at a time. If you want to use the...

One comment. You don't need to dry the car before claying. Leave it wet and clay. The water will serve as some lubrication so you'll use less clay lube.

Bobby is dead on. I have a PCXP and one red 6.5" pad that came free with Menz Powerlock. It's barely acceptable for spreading sealant. I couldn't imagine polishing with it. Switch to the 5.5" pads. BTW, according to Menz, Mercedes uses their polishes to finish the paint. If the mfg chose a...