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As APC's are products that generally require dilution (and there are so many on the market) they are generally not recommended for use when cleaning leather. If the dilution is wrong and the product is too strong it could potentially damage the finish on the leather which will lead to long term...

Leather stretches naturally. Some panels if cut from the outer edges of the hide will stretch more than others. These creases are an inherent part of the leather and will not be rectified by the use of 'conditioners' etc. It is vitally important to keep these areas clean and free from dirt and...

Dye Transfer is the dyestuff transferred to leather from clothing or newsprint. It is more usually seen on light coloured, protected, leathers but it can occur on any leather, though not as noticeably. As the name explains the dyes that are leached from jeans, clothing, newspapers etc...

Unfinished leathers (aniline style) will readily absorb any normal leather cleaning liquids that you used, darkening the leather and making it almost impossible to do any real cleaning. These type of leathers require a non surfactant cleaner that will stay on the surface and clean any dirt...

Leather does not require 'conditioning' with anything other than water. Keep your leather clean by protecting it with a leather protector and then regular cleaning. Adding 'conditioners' which generally contain oils and waxes will change the appearance of your leather over time as dirt will...

If the leather finish is breaking down enough to allow oils and waxes to penetrate then it needs restoration which cannot be done with 'conditioning' products. The pigment /finish will need replacing to prevent the leather itself from being damaged. Once leather itself is damaged it is...

We have checked all our details with tanners, leather technologists and chemists throughout the world. The oils that are reintroduced into leather during the tanning process (mostly synthetic as all natural oils are removed) are good for 30 years and do not leave the leather. What does dry out...

This is not poor advice. Please think this through logically. Auto leather is a piece of full or top grain leather which is painted with a flexible pigment and then coated with a clear coat finish. If this clear coat finish is not looked after correctly it will crack over time due to dirt...

Leather does not require 'conditioning' with anything other than water. Keep your leather clean by protecting it with a leather protector and then regular cleaning. Adding 'conditioners' which generally contain oils and waxes will change the appearance of your leather over time as dirt will...

Leather does not require 'conditioning' with anything other than water. Keep your leather clean by protecting it with a leather protector and then regular cleaning. Adding 'conditioners' which generally contain oils and waxes will change the appearance of your leather over time as dirt will...

Ink Removal Removing ink from leather is not a cleaning problem. Most ink removal products will not work simply because of the length of time the ink has been on the leather. Ink is a dye and has re-coloured the leather (this is what it is meant to do) The longer the ink has been on the leather...

Most auto leather is finished leather and the leather in your car is almost certainly finished/coated. If you put any cleaner on the leather and it stays on the surface then you have a coated leather, if the cleaner was absorbed into the leather and turned it black then you would have a aniline...

I believe Einszett contains waxes which should really be avoided on finished leathers. It cannot soak through the finishes and so never reaches the leather itself. Water based products containing no waxes or oils would be better as these will keep the leather in good 'condition' by rehydrating...

Mink oil should definitely not be used on finished auto leather. It will sit on the surface and attract more dirt and oils which will break down the finish on the leather. Oils cannot get through the finish on protected leather and adding oils to leather is not reuqired anyway as the oils...

Is this suede (leather) or a fabric like alcantara?. If it is leather then it should not be wet cleaned. If it is alcantara it should not be over wetted or solvent cleaned as there is a risk of delamination. If it is genuine suede then you should really use a 'dry' process like a nubuck cloth...

Yes recolouring processes would be what is needed and the repair should (if done well) restore the colour to match the original. We actually teach in the UK so this is the type of work we train people to do.

If you have tried all the above and not removed the marker then it has permanently recoloured the leather and will need a technican to recolour the area. Removing ink or markers is not a cleaning problem it is a technical one. It may require strong solvents to remove it which will damage the...

Generally speaking leather in cars is finished leather ie. it has some sort of clear coat finish on the top surface of the leather. However it is always wise to check before embarking on any cleaning operation as some high end models and older cars do have more absorbent leathers which will...

This is a response to several articles on leather cleaning recently posted on various forums. It has taken some time to compile as we wanted to check all our facts and needed to discuss various points with a tannery, leather technologists and our product research specialists. The views...

Horsehair brushes soften too much to be of any real use. We use IKEA dish brushes and they work perfectly.