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last time i did my engine on my mustang i ended up ruining one of my coils, its a coil on plug car..i was using simple green to do the cleaning portion...could the SG have anything to do with it? i was j/w because i saw an ad for someone doing engine detailing using what they claimed was an...

ok i may try that since i know they make good stuff, i initially it was a lengthy process judging by their other cleaner and conditioner..i know its not an AG product but has anyone used CG cleaner/conditioner? also how would your leather cleaning and conditioning processes/products differ...

without sacrificing much from doing a 2 step clean and condition? since most of the cars are DDs anyways and only would have leather on the actual seating area and not the sides etc

lol yeah i sent you a PM already when i got it but yeah i was wondering how much i should be able to do with that amount, thanks again

i have heard CG lightning fast stain extractor is good to use on tough stains like grease..i cant say for sure because i haven't used it, but actually have some on the way....i have a steamer and i don't think that would do anything honestly..i dont see how the extractor could make the stain any...

go over it with whatever glass towel you are using with a little extra cleaner on it the first time,and flip it as needed to get it as streak free as possible for the first time around. I like to spray the cleaner on the glass or inside windshield as opposed to spraying it on the towel..if i am...

same here, i have checked before and after spots while using even light clay with plenty of lube and there is slight marring, thats with folding the clay after every small section clayed i always check after i do my first section to see if the paint was marred at all and some vehicles i dont...

thanks for the help everybody, surprised to see people coming forward to offer samples, i really appreciate it guys :xyxthumbs:

ok and on another car im working on there are scuffs but also some scrapes where it has gone through to the base/primer...would using a 7424 with a light polish remove the paint around the scratch without further damaging the scratch?

well i didnt necessarily need it to seal...i just meant a 1 step polish...because either d151 or xmt would save me some decent time even tho id still have to seal with 151..i was thinking PF already too

yeah i was looking at either xmt or d151 but like i was saying how do you market an aio? do you list everything seperate still? and is the xmt360 actually going to remove scratches or will they just come back when the sealant wears off?

and the d151 can be adjusted by the pad used? and say if youre doing wash/clay klasse aio then how do you market it...do you list polish, wax, and sealant seperate even tho its in the AIO or....?

i was initially interested in multi step paint correction for my detailing business however upon thinking it over i think i would be better just using a good AIO with say a green pad then a blue that will finish nicely and remove most of the swirls... to cut down on time and to keep my prices...

the only reason i dont want to use ipa is because the car has alot of sap and i dont want to leave it all over while removing the rest of the sap before i wash the car?

ur talking about using 91%?

what % should i use that is safe?

that stuff is safe for paint? just making sure because im going to try it on some tar and other gunk too ive heard of using wd-40, acetone, and even invisible glass but i am hesitant to use these on paint..

it seems like when using clay it just rubs the sap around a bit and doesnt get it off...maybe if i used a mid or aggressive instead of light clay it would have been different but the car doesnt need to be polished as it sits and i dont want any marring from an aggressive bar...any other...

np man

as far as machine polishing should i use a respirator? and i cant seem t find a straight answer on this but is there any lead in modern auto paint?