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btw, the snobrum things are great. I don't know about one being better than another, but I like the one I've used for years.

If you are a man, it's not ok to just clear the windows and lights and let the rest blow around on the road and other cars. Doesn't matter where you live or how often it snows. It's lazy and irresponsible. Little old ladies and perhaps girls in general get a pass, but everyone else needs to man...

We've seen a few have issues, turning back a little discolored... seems to be on soft lens cars, like early 00s corollas and civics. But that's been the exception. Mostly, it's working very well. btw, the 10cc is too expensive if you are doing this for hire... get the 40cc. You can do a ton of...

I think I see the issue. With OL, I suggest you only strip-fix the top 1/4-1/3 and then compound and coat the entire lens. Saves a ton of time and effort that isn't required. On many cars, that means no more heavy grits because it's not needed to fix what's already gone. Often all you need is...

Part-timer, try using the Optilens on some easier cars that don't require your full sanding process, 400-800-1500-3000. If you can get with 1500-3000-compound-coating, I think you will see good results. Your spar coating is likely masking the marks left behind from the first couple sanding...

If the factory coating is in good condition, no worries. Not every car is the same... I suppose some of the weakest/thinnest coatings (toyota for example) could eventually be removed with a cutting compound, but it would take a ridiculous amount of time and effort. On other makes (GM) I think...

AIO/polish will not remove factory coating at all. Even a cutting compound and a wool pad would have a hard time making a dent in it.

Opti-lens works best on a fully polished lens. Compared to spar varnish, it goes on very thin and clear.... does not streak or peel or fade. Drawback is that you need to restore the clarity of the lens by polishing and can't rely on the coating to hide much. But you end up with a much better...

IMO, that's about what to expect with minwax on a vehicle. Expect it to fail in 6-12 months. Anyone doing retail HLR should be using something else. Even for car dealers, I think it's a bad idea. I consider it a short term DIY fix, not a professional process. The real problem I have is not just...

Sanded vs polished is not a problem, IMO because polishing is a bad idea when using spar. It will peel off even easier if applied to a polished lens. As a fun addition to the test, try using a pressure washer to clean it after a few weeks. :xyxthumbs:

Sometimes there is a film on the inside... looks like a fog/smoke. I had the same thing on the last Saab I did, one light being worse than the other. Usually they are both the same. If it was my car, I would remove the lights and do a thorough wash/rinse/dry cycle... but that may be too time...

my .02 I would say there is no exact time to wait between coats, simply because the variables of temp, humidity, wind, sun. But in talking to DrG, 5-10 minutes is adequate assuming normal good conditions. I've worked in poor conditions however where it takes much longer before the coating seems...

Oh yeah.... that is pretty common to the ram trucks. And the lights are HUGE and definitely not ones you want to sand the whole thing. Limit the sanding work to the damage area. Don't expect it to come out 100%, but I've had good results doing as I mentioned before, and finishing with Optilens...

The difficulty and time varies, but this type of damage along the top side can be tough to fix... and in some cases it's impossible to get it 100%. But even then, the repaired light will look great compared to the current condition. If it's an Impala for example, expect to do 500 grit or lower...

Just looking at the description from Meguairs, IMO you can tell it's not going to last: Applying this product every time you wax your car ensures that your headlights look new and bright for a longer period of time. That's a pretty weak claim for this type of product. Maybe they are just being...

Real coatings like the UV cured spray products are much better than spar varnish. Spar is soft even when cured and it degrades within a year in real world conditions, from my experience. Of course, that varies based on how much exposure it gets, etc. Spar looks good when applied right, but it's...

I've done a few cars at dealers, where it rained just a few minutes after coating. When I checked back on them the next week, they all looked fine. Won't hurt to add another coat either way. On the other question, I will second/third the response on the polish.... it won't haze the lens and...

:urtheman: oh, but you bothered to post? yeah....

Sorry. Rainy day I guess. Didn't mean to make such a big deal-long post.

How is it so difficult to see there is more than one way to make money? MB-Ferrari-Lambo-Bentley vs. VW-Honda-Ford-Hyundai Should we preach to VW to be more like MB? Guess which brands have highest profits? I've seen the same argument many times in the windshield repair biz. (and...