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Your point is often true, but it's not an absolute as you imply and it's not a revelation. There is no need to talk down to everyone, or imply that someone doing work at a lower price is doing inferior work simply because you charge more. Price charged is not a direct link to the quality of the...

Took a good couple months to figure out what nobody else knows. Impressive.

In many cases, yes. :xyxthumbs: Also, it's a good idea to hit the entire lens with a high grit and/or compound prior to cleaning and coating with Optlens.

Solaray is good stuff, but as mentioned... it sprays thick so it has to be laid down heavy, to level. Very tricky to get a smooth finish without orange peel or sagging. But from what I've seen when trying to remove the cured coating, it may be the toughest, most durable spray coating out there...

Yup. ;) 1500 almost got it. Go back with a fresh 1500 again to get what's left... 1000 if that's not working.

First reply is correct. Those spots are what's left of the original factory coating. Simply needs a little more sanding

POPPAJ If the "sandblasted look" is what it sounds like... light road rash on the surface... then I would say the coating will help fill/hide it. But if the pitting is bad, don't expect miracles... it's not what it's designed to do and typically I would say the coating doesn't do much to hide...

Pricing and time varies a lot. Some are cake and some will test your patience. Could be 10 minutes, or an hour+ on bad ones. For example, GM vehicles tend to be difficult, and require MUCH more work sanding/fixing the damage than the average set. Your Honda is a breeze compared to a Chevy Impala...

Definitely look into getting the new Opti-lens, especially if there is any chance you will be doing lights for someone else. On your own car, you could give it a polish every so often. But if you do lights for $, you don't want people seeing their lights looking like crap again in a few months...

I'm impressed with the results shown here, with the products used. 2.5 hours doesn't surprise me at all. lol Polishing scratches from glass is difficult to say the least, even though some professional systems claim it's fast and easy. I've used a couple very different systems and have...

Funny you mention that. I did the same thing a while back, thinking these pads might work pretty slick to touch up a light wiper scratch on my car. After about 30 seconds of "polishing" I didn't notice the wiper mark so much because of all the new swirl scratches the pad put into the glass. Not...

I just put the OptiGlass Pro coating on my new work vehicle a couple weeks ago. Time will tell how it holds up, of course... but I was happy with the way the water beaded and rolled off when it finally rained here a little bit yesterday. Initial impression is very good. Application was easy...

RLI is a good bet. I actually got a fair deal for general liability+garage keepers for my business through my state farm agent... so don't hesitate to check a few places including your own house/auto insurance co.

You might contact the AGO guys or Optimum direct to see what the status is. It was due to be released this month.

For your own car, I would say take time going through sanding and polishing process to bring the lens back to a good finish and then maintain it with regular application of a wax/sealant with uv inhibitors, and at any point you could decide to use a more permanent coating. Or you can wipe on...

My .02 is to find a different coating. Seriously, if you are going put in the time and effort to do a job, and charge people good money.... it's not that much to add a better coating to the process. Besides spar varnish, some of the coatings I have used... UV cure spray coating, 2 part mix...

You are correct... it's not out yet, but I've been fortunate enough to get some already, thanks to the guys at Optimum. So I have some good experience with it over the last couple of months. It's supposed to be available next month. OptiLens is working awesome, assuming you can get the lens...

Use Optimum compound following the sanding process, going at least 2000 grit. After the compound, you could follow with the polish. I use Optimum Hyper Compound followed by Opti Lens coating.

Those steps are fine. Try adding a 3000 grit finishing step before compounding... 3M trizact 3000 pads are nice. Also, skip the 600 and even the 800 unless absolutely necessary. That will make the whole job much faster and easier to get perfect results.

Certain vehicles tend to have this "fog" on the inside. Escalade is probably the number one most common example of this. I've seen it on others too... buick lesabre, vw bug, chevy cobalt and malibu, nissan altima, and some toyotas... rav4 and tacoma, etc etc.