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I got my hands on some and have been using it for a few weeks. So far, it's holding up very nicely. :props: For best results, you need to get the lens fully refinished, including a compounding step, prior to applying the coating. It's not going to fill/hide sanding sins like minwax. But it does...

Pressure washer will remove the old coating. Or as mentioned, its pretty easy to remove by sanding. Too easy really.

I've used water blade enough to know they don't seek out dirt and use it to mar the crap out of your car, let alone leave huge scratches. There is a little truth to both sides, but some will never admit it. They are above mere mortal man. Best to just roll eyes and move on to more important things.

You can't ever mention things like "cut corners" on forums like this without the backlash. I had no problem understanding that he's not talking about doing show cars or garage queens here. In the detailing world, is it only ok to do high end work? Or is everything below that looked down on? As...

Agreed. I was just considering a small spray bottle as an alternative to the syringe... mist on surface and wipe. I was not aware that some were spraying on OC and letting it cure without any wipedown? That's great because it makes me feel better about an idea I have for OC. :xyxthumbs: I've...

OC is way to expensive to spray with a gun like that :eek: Does anyone use a simple pump sprayer bottle... small cosmetic type? I've thought about doing that, but wasn't sure if it would dry and clog up the sprayer tip.

Does kinda feel like stealing LOL and I felt bad enough that I picked up a couple things that were not on clearance too, and donated $1 for one of those JDRF charity paper shoe things. I only saw a handful of items on clearance, and not all of them were a nickel. One store had various clearance...

For what it's worth, I don't know how some companies can always do free shipping. Every time I go to UPS etc, it costs a small fortune. I tend to get addicted to the free shipping that's offered all the time at sites like amazon, buy.com, etc, you name it. It's nice to shop knowing exactly...

Thanks to this thread, I also scored a few .05 items today. Checked out 3 stores and found stuff at two of them. Both stores also told me they are not supposed to sell stuff that's .05 but sold it anyway. Kinda stupid that they're supposed to somehow just dispose of it but can't let someone walk...

Thanks to this thread, I was able to score a few items at a couple stores. Megs mild clay, megs fin insp. gal, a few trizact 3000 discs, marhyde paint stripper, and the best was several quarts of duplicolor emerald green metallic paint. All of that stuff was .05 but not all the clearance...

I would agree.... lacquer thinner may eat the plastic. Also, you need to use a product with UV inhibitor, made for use outdoors. I'd be shocked if you cannot get an outdoor "spar varnish" or "spar urethane" locally. Cabot, Minwax, Varathane brands all have it, and I'm sure there are others.

Yes, some lights can be a pain for sure and some are a breeze. It used to be a lot bigger deal when I was polishing out everything. When using a wipe on or spray on coating (thicker product... not a thin "invisible" sealant like opti-coat etc) it doesn't matter so much because the coating hides...

I've been experimenting doing HL for around 15 years... so procedures vary depending on my mood LOL. Typical process for me of late... Dry sand with 5" DA starting with what's needed. Sometimes one step(1000 or 1500g), sometimes 2 or 3. (400-1500g) Then wet sand by hand 2000 Unigrit and 3000...

Buying the customer new lamps would be insane $$$$. Unless there is some sort of major negligence, a HL repair guy can't be expected to do that. I don't think that's the case here at all. Aside from failing to remove all the damaged surface, or skipping vital steps in the process... there...

I was using blades quite a bit when first doing HL in the 90's, and still do occasionally... on a really thick crusty clear coat that would take a lot of sanding. Sometimes a blade will flake it off really easy, where sanding would be tough sledding. You have to be really careful with technique...

Be careful which screen protector you get. Some are "grabby" and some aren't even smooth. One of the expensive ones is nearly indestructible but it's also kinda sticky and textured.

I put opti clear on my phone the other day. I've thought about doing opti coat too, just haven't yet. I don't think it will have any ill effects. Maybe I will be the guinea pig....

Thanks for posting this hotrod. Most of what I have done so far, I won't be able to track long term. I have a couple other long term test jobs to do... just haven't got to them yet. I had hopes that OC would be the silver bullet... a fairly simple and nearly permanent coating. I've been using...

I just ordered some of their glass polish last week, forgot to order their glass discs to try. I would like to try the glass and paint clay soon. I will try their 3" polisher for headlight work once I get low on my 5" disc supply. Almost ordered one last week, but dumped it from the cart last...

Nice! Sounds about right. The razor blade can make short work of nasty stuff, but be really careful to not leave bad marks from start/stops. Those will take a good bit of standing to remove.