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You "need" to get products for the glass and interior. but otherwise, why by more stuff when you already have plenty of products? Forget about getting "the best" because there is no such thing. What you need is to JUST DO IT. Maybe you won't like some of the products you already have, but you'll...

I knew this would come up. :D As I said, I completely understand the need to be comfortable while detailing; I know it is tough work. What I am suggesting is that ONLY for the video, he wear different clothes. Heck, I don't care if in reality he likes to polish car naked. :laughing: I don't...

I can't say what is best, but Meguiar's 26 is legendary, and certainly in the inexpensive category. You can also put Meguiar's 16 in that category too, although it is no longer sold here in the USA.

Never heard of it. BTW, you are not supposed to post links to companies not represented by Autogeek.

My old '83 Mazda 626 had that too.

Which DP wash product are you using? They make one specifically for foam.

Nice job on the Mustang. I have a few nitpicks about the video, however: At the beginning, the word experimenting is spelled incorrectly. There should be an apostrophe in the word car's to indicate a possessive state. The ellipsis should be three periods (...), not two. Your shirt has what I...

Dealers sell "coatings" to make money; they charge $$$ for what amounts to (usually) a spray sealant. A few actually do apply a "nano" coating, which are more durable than a paint sealant. If you call the dealer, they may tell you that you would void the warranty given with the coating. That...

I joke about making your own vinegar, but if I had a MF addiction, having a separate washer and dryer would keep the clothes washer and dryer cleaner and prevent cross contamination with non-MF fabrics.

The next step would be to buy a separate washer and dryer for your microfiber towels ... and then make your own vinegar. :laughing:

... and at stronger dilution ratios you can use D114 as an LSP stripper or panel wipe instead of IPA.

I haven't needed a reason to use anything other APC than D101. It works and it costs less.

"Buffers" that most people use of the dual action variety. They are easy to use and safe as long as you don't do stupid things like putting the pads face down on the ground(!) Of course it would be prudent to recommend the polishers that Autogeek sells; the least expensive is the Porter Cable...

I'd love to work on a vehicle that didn't require taping ... I hate taping. :laughing: Looking forward to the after shots.

If you absolutely have no option but to polish by hand, don't bother with buying separate compound, polish, and wax products. Just get an over-the-counter all-in-one product such as Meguiar's White Wax. Being that your truck is white, you probably have a difficult time seeing scratches anyway...

+1 to all of the above advice. Also, you may not need or even want a DSLR. A good fixed lens camera or mirrorless camera will do the job just as well. DPreview.com and imaging-resource.com are good places to read reviews and research cameras.

What you probably read is that it might take 30 seconds for each section pass. You're going to do six to eight passes for each section ... so a few minutes for each two-foot square section. But there are lots of factors that will affect the time: temperature, pads, product, machine, technique, etc.

Welcome to AGO. I like the name you chose, even if Florida has nothing to do with Route 66. :D

The clay alternatives are definitely faster to use. They're larger, don't require kneading or flattening, no worries about dropping it on the ground ... just rinse and repeat. I don't think the brand matters; they're probably all good. There are different types though: towels, mitts, sponges...

I use the full Rupes system, so I generally just use the compound or polish that is matched to each colored pad, i.e. the coarse compound with the blue pad, the medium compound with the green pad, and so on. Not always, but most of the time. But no, I haven't mark the pads, just the backing plate.