I find Pin Souv much better than that.
For the record I usually get a car Sat and put PS on it and let it cure overnight and right before delivery I go over it with PS spray wax. Last car I did I ran out of time and used PS Spray only. Looked great just don't know how long will stand up...
I use a rotary with small pads and start with Plastix or something like Sup Int Polish then go down to Final polish, works well for me. Just wish that I could get the inside yellowing out.
I go panel by panel. ONR, clay, polish, wax the next panel. But I still have to power wash or hose wash after to get the dusting out of the nooks and stuff.
After detailing for many years I finally learned to use less product and I do not need to make as many passess. This has helped go faster and keep my sanity. I've also perfected going around trim and the badges without taping. How about you?
This was a 1991 Toyota. One of the worst paint conditions I have done in my 10+ years professionally detailing. Everything you see as a flaw on the polished side is rock chips. Oh my were there rock chips.
Yeah I like the stuff I just cant figure out why it acts like it does at times. I love polishing out a car and then hitting it with black hole and Pin Souv.
Partly disagree on the PBs as it states on the bottle it has some removal capabilities. I know on occasion on black vehicles Ive left a buffer trail and its gotten it out and I know its not hiding it. Its a nice wetting glaze but not worthy IMO of being called a true hiding glaze.
As for the...
Ive applied both with a PC at low speeds and a gray LC pad and it still leaves spots that are even with the rest of the coat but its as if you have to scrub the paint to get the residue off. I tried a LC CCS green (not the harsher one) and it did the same thing. Do I have to apply these with...
I sit on a pad on the ground when working low. I found using a pad conditioner and always keeping it slightly damp did the trick. Thank you all for your thoughts. Now if I could get this darn M3 done!