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I just did a 2006 Rav4, and it bled... and bled... and bled...

As I think more about it, the problem may be related more to over-saturating than pad quality itself. When I did the roof panel, I did admittedly prime the pad with too much product. I initially thought it was a bad batch because the first pad I got had no issues whatsoever. Then I ordered...

Improper surface prep / paint application issues cannot typically be resolved without repainting the area, nor should they be something the customer should have to deal with themselves. My advice would be to make the body shop pay whatever it costs to have another shop fix what they couldn't...

On the plus side, I will say that the yellow hybrid paired with Menzerna PF 2500 is a killer combo...

For future reference, let's keep the kitchen sponges where the name indicates they belong... in the kitchen... Happy to hear it turned out okay.

I also had one shred around the edges this weekend. I was working on the roof of a 2006 Toyota Rav4, and the pad was new when I started. I have noticed that these pads start out hard like the white or orange pads, but soften up considerably after a few sections. I was initially impressed with...

Opti-Coat. Coated a few sets of rims with it and it works awesome!

I have, and use, both Menzerna SF 4500 and Gtechniq p2, and they are definitely not the same thing. Different consistency, different texture, different workability, and different finish.

I'd be happy to send you out one of my velvet pads so you can do your own testing... I tried at least three different compounds on multiple test areas along with a control, and saw no appreciable difference. Again, this was on a DA, not a rotary, which is what the pads were designed for.

It's their branding.

It's also available in 1/2" and 3/4" widths. The 3/4" is really nice to have around, especially for taping around sunroofs!

The velvet pads do not work on a DA. Let me rephrase that... They have little to no effect on a DA. You'll need to use the denim pads instead. What kind of vehicle are you working on (year, make, model), and where are you located? Also, I would not proceed if you do not have a PTG. The...

I am very interested in trying and reviewing this product! I have a number of different vehicles that I would like to try this on.

I think both are fine products. That being said, I prefer to use OC on wheels, primarily because I don't want to have to reapply it down the road. Removing the wheels is a pain. As far as OC being "permanent", anything that can be removed by polishing isn't permanent in my opinion...

Removing orange peel without a PTG is like having unprotected sex. Sure, you may get by just fine, but there's a good chance that you could end up being on the hook for a very expensive bill... On the flip side, a PTG isn't going to protect you 100%, but its better than just winging it...

Having a general idea is better than having no idea at all... If one panel measures at 5 mils and another measures at 2.5, you better believe I'm not going to attempt any sort of orange peel removal on that panel.

As a general rule, I have found that you pretty much can't go wrong with microfiber towels made in Korea. Though I hear the Germans make some good towels too. Again, not naming any names...

After washing, I lay mine out, Velcro side up, on grit guards. Sometimes I'll even take them out in the garage and hang them from my wire racks with some Velcro bundling straps that I cut into 3" strips, and pint the fan at them. They are dry within a matter of hours! If you need to dry them...

You can pick up a PTG on eBay for under $200. It's where I got mine (model # CM8801FN). At this price, every detailer should have one.

Trust me, I know first hand, you need a PTG if you're going to be doing any sort of orange peel removal, denim or not. I removed the orange peel from my 2013 Honda Accord Touring, and I used the denim pads on a DA (pioneered this method, which is based off of Todd Helme's method on a rotary)...