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I'll add to what my buddy Paul says above. Not sure what PC Machine you have, just regular 7424, or the 7424XP? (I have the newer XP Model) I have often found speed 5 will get it, slower yes, but if proper pressure is applied, and all is working well, you can often get by with speed 5...

Yes, start with the white pads. I'm assuming they are flat pads? The white pads work and cut nicely with a finishing polish, or say a polish like Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover (Called TSR by us folks) The thing is with any pad, how many of each do you have on hand? If it's just 2 or 3, then...

Agreed, looks like you have what should work, and agree with BSoars, do the test spot. Start with the mildest product, I'm thinking that's the Meg's Ultimate Polish, probably the same as Meg's #205, do the section passes, and see? If for say you see some deeper RIDS here and there (Random...

I've also been into Amateur Astronomy for many decades. Still have two nice Refractors, 5.2" Apomax, a 4.1" AP Traveler, and a Byers Mount. Sold all my Astro film cameras, a Pentax 6x7, and a Nikon F-3HP. Never really started up with CCD. Had a friend in New Mexico I lived close to who used...

I wouldn't think a Rotary would be needed on a 9 month old car. The paint isn't Imron either.

Happens with a lot of old Chevy Classics, the original motor is long gone. That was the case with my '67 Stingray (327) and my '68 Camaro (396) as well. The Stingray's original motor crapped out at 6 month's time, original owner found he was going through a qt of oil every 400 miles, entire...

IMO, it really doesn't matter much after the fact, of dousing an antique in a manner I cautioned against. Too late. In certain climes, vehicles rust to the bone that have never even been washed. Take my Tahoe there in my avatar. There it sat in the desert under a carport in (Alamogordo) NM...

Sorry for my mis-information, I should know better since I did once own a '68SS396. Yours then is quite a rare vehicle. Is there still a big block under the hood may I ask? I'm hoping what you are experiencing is not so much soft paint, but as others have touched upon, possible residues...

Using water period on these vintage classics is a mortal sin! Two Bucket washes, grit guards, foam guns and all that other whacky BS is fine for a newer Korean Hyundai S&ht Box. You do NOT want water going down inside door panels, or anywhere else where it will sit for eons and cause rusting...

Or, you could go the simple route.... Buy a bottle of good glaze. Poor Boys is outstanding (Black Hole). Apply, and finish-top with a good sealant or wax. Wolfgang 3.0 is good, Collinite is good, I'll take and use either versus PBL! Colly #845 is very good, #915, or especially #476 is...

Your car is a prime candidate for a Ceramic Coating. That will "toughen up the paint" that such a soft paint won't keep getting hammered, even when just taking off a car cover. The question is, "what coating"? I've used a couple so called coatings, and bought right here, and I didn't think...

There was no such thing as a 1967 SS396 Camaro that I'm aware of.

I had the gust guard clamps or whatever you want to call them from Covercraft, they were crap. They all snapped-broke in very short time. I found better at wally world in their RV section for 1/2 the price, and twice as durable. A least get a Security Cable, and throw a Padlock on it. If, at...

I tried the Langka system, it didn't work at all for me. It relies on factory-type touch up paint, which you'll wait days and weeks on end to fully dry. By the time I was getting the "blob" leveled, there was no more paint left in the chip! LOL Now I wonder if Langka will work with Dr, C-Chip...

I had gotten the free Samples from Covercraft when the NOAH Cover was starting to fail. This cover I believe had a 4 year warrantee, but began to tear at stress points due to extreme high winds. I didn't press Covercraft over the warrantee for a few reasons. It began to fail at about the 2, to...

The thicker materials on car covers will offer some degree of "bump protection", but of course there's not a cover in the Covercraft line-up, or anyone else's for that matter that's going to protect against quarter sized hail, a child running a bike hard into the car, things like that.

Then yes, get a cover. Some people, have garages where the vehicles stay pretty clean, others not so much due to areas they live, etc. I think most will agree, the best car covers in the business are Covercraft, and they are sold right here. I've owned two for my Tahoe, first the NOAH, and...

Most of us who go the coating route, and with one like CQ UK do this: Wash-dry Apply Carpro Iron-X to remove Iron Particles, rinse, dry Clay, wash-dry Polish. Go over entire vehicle with Carpro Eraser. Mask Coat, let dry a minimum of one hour. Apply Carpro Reload. Yeah, it's a lot of work. On...

I'm not going to say you're over-thinking things, thinking and being logically analytical is good. All three are very good products, can say anything bad about them. I've used all three, but I never combined them with 601, never had such on hand to try. One thing you could try, and there...

If it's any help, yes, I tried #501 with a D/A once to see what correction abilities it had? It had basically zero. Others have hit the line-up spot on. Chemical cleaners only, no abrasives in any of them, with 501 having the most, then 105 with less, and last #111 with none, just a pure...