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IMO keep the flex and look for a long throw if you can afford it. For long hours behind the polisher- long throws are the way to go! They're smooth and very effective especially on large flat panels. Being a long time rotary user, rotary is still my preference, but there is no denying that a...

Man, this has me second guessing "upgrading" my 3401 to the Mille. As stated, its not comfortable, quiet or nearly as "sexy" as the Mille, but it just plain works. And it really doesn't care what kind of pad you put on it.

Rupes makes incredible tools, but part of what makes the tools so effective is the fact that they're designed within a system. Mike Phillips has an entire book talking about the Rupes system, which is a great tool to add to your polishers if you are to buy them. That being said, Rupes tools...

I'd second Sean's observation. My best guess is the suspect "detailer" was using a Rotary polisher set on too high of speed, equipped with a foam cut pad and not enough product. I call this "dry buffing." Situations like this only take seconds with a rotary and usually happen where compound...

Out of the "trifecta" (PE-14, 3401 and XFE), the 3401 is the most "rough" running of the bunch, albeit effective at removing defects! If you're looking into a rotary, it doesn't get much better than the PE-14.

bump- anyone have a clue?

Vote for either the Flex XFE-7 or 3401. Anything Rupes is fantastic too!

Anybody know when this is expected to make its debut? Really looking forward to seeing its performance in both a production as well as a show-car environment. Thanks!

I've really enjoyed my Flex XFE-7 thus far. The only subtle complaint was the metal screws that hold the front cap on get pretty warm and take you by surprise after a long polish session. This was remedied with some OE plastic flex ones (as found on the PE-14). I tend to use higher speeds...

One of my previous employers would call that a "Bernie Over-buffer." Unfortunately, looks like a repaint is your only option. Clearing over a burn through will not yield good results IMO. Best of luck with the situation!

My vote is for 476. IME not that difficult to remove unless your using it in direct sunlight. 845 is easier to apply (by hand). With a DA i think its a wash. I usually use 476 as a base and then top with 845 :xyxthumbs:

Looks like you have the process almost dialed in! My personal preference after sanding with 3000 grit, is a 4" Buff and shine orange pad on my PE14 using M100 (Or FG400 in your case). I've used my GG6 with this same pad with great results, but I prefer the speed and precision of the Rotary...

Great results! I love D151! Personal experience, I noticed that after a LC orange pad on my 3401 (soft late 90s Jeep single-stage paint) D151 left behind a slight haze. This was easily fixed with another run around with a white polishing pad! Only time will tell if D151 actually corrected the...

IMO stay far far away from any operation that claims, "air brush" touch up. Ive had some experience with this type of work and it doesn't ever look right, fails after sometimes several months meaning a correct repair the first time around would have been a better option. Find a good body shop...

For being new to polishing, I'd go with either the GG6 or 3401 (I have and use both regularly). Both are capable of running different sized backing plates which enables a much wider pad choice. The GG6 is slightly easier to control, but the 3401 yields more consistent (and faster) results...

:iagree:

Man this is rough. I have had mine for a couple months now and done about 4 full cut/polish jobs, as well as a number of "polish only" sessions. Many times the machine is around speed 4-5, sometimes as high as 6. I run a 5" BP. DaveT435, your initial review actually helped me make my decision to...

I'm a fan of HVLP spraying dressing on tires. I have a couple cheap HF sprayers set up for such duty. I spray multiple SUPER thin coats after letting them "tack" for 15-30 minutes - even solvent based dressings don't sling for me using the "thin and tack" technique :xyxthumbs:.

My hand application involves taking an old butter knife and get a tiny bit out (probably no larger than a dime), and rub it into a yellow round sponge applicator pad. Then I work the product into the pad, almost like you're "priming" the pad. This also disperses the product throughout the sponge...

I'll add my experience, Although I have never used blacklight, I use to use a line of products that had a "nano creme" that was exceptionally good on dark colors and was applied either by hand or DA. I used it on my wife's black VW Jetta Sportwagen to "hide" some very minor scratches and topped...