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im fast becoming a big fan of Dodo Juice 'Need for speed'. it contains carnauba wax as well as being a cleaner/polish, so you get a bit of added protection from it as well. not the cheapest out there mind you

i generally use chemical guys bare bones in the wheel wells, a little goes a long way. Chemical Guys UNDERCARRIAGE SPRAY BARE BONES NEW LOOK SHINE

:iagree: one thing to bear in mind is that waxes are absorbent, whereas sealants are repellant (generally speaking). a good comparison would probably be between a bullet proof vest (wax) compared to bullet proof glass (sealant). one absorbs, the other deflects, but both protect. what that...

that really depends on just how aggressive you are with the compounds you're using. factory clearcoat is generally anywhere from 30-70 microns thick, and will vary not only from panel to panel, but over any given panel (its often particularly noticeable from top to bottom on vertical panels)...

dodo juice Lime Prime 'lite' is a great abrasive free glaze

Regardless of whether you are being paid or not, ALWAYS do the best job you can. You cannot buy a reputation and good recommendations are worth their weight in gold. As for working 'pro bono', if you feel the need to, then try to up sell extras (do the exterior for free but charge for the...

if you're using a dressing that dries, then simply applying a second coat over the first once it has cured may even it out

:iagree:

orange crush is a fantastic wax, definitely one of my all time favourites

wow, thats pretty major! you could chance a respray, but I'm guessing that they'd need to strip the clearcoat back first to try to resolve the blistering. you may just have to live with it unfortunately, trying to fix it could be hugely expensive. did the body shop make any suggestions?

The Japanese are widely considered to be the best/fastest in the world at mental arithmetic :xyxthumbs: Try this at home lol https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7wYDsMxbV7g

my guess would be 3M in that case ;-) it was only as a matter of interest, but i guess if you tell everyone on the forum you'll be inundated with questions about your product range, so probably wise to keep it under your hat :xyxthumbs:

Ideally you need to get a paint gauge on it to know whether or not you have anything to play with. If the paint is nice and deep at that point you might just get away with wet sanding and then machining it out, if it's already in the 100 micron range, he's probably had it. At the end of the day...

yeah, when you start to break it down theres a fair bit of crossover in terminology really and i should probably have added the phrase 'generally speaking' to that sentence. Differentiating between hand and machine use is probably as good a place as any. i often think of the difference as being...

Yes, I'm sure that's the case. In the UK, polishing is the process, compound is the product (assuming it contains abrasives). In fact if you scroll down to the Scholls section on that chart, you'll see that scholls S30 in the light polish section says nano compound. indeed if you look at any...

i would consider a polish or paint cleaner that contains abrasive to be a compound tbh, so I think we're probably on the same page :xyxthumbs:

if you want to strip it completely, then claying followed with a light compound would be the best way. claying isn't difficult and should always be carried out before applying a new sealant, polish or wax. try to make it part of your routine

:iagree: its a common spot for water marks if your in a hard water area because the water pools slightly in the gap between the body and the filler cap door, and then runs out later when your not looking :laughing:.

I've found a cotton wool makeup pad (the type girlies use for doing stuff with their faces) soaked in tar remover and left to sit over the residue for a while is an excellent way of removing the stuff. you could also try soaking it with WD40 on a pad or some rag, just don't get it on your brakes...

love the fight or flight analogy btw Mike, excellent :dblthumb2: