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I apologise for the length, but really the only concern I have is the undesired action of the Poli-Seal. I'm now repeating some tests with some other mild polishes to see if I can come up with a replacement for the Poli-Seal that wont ruin the OG.

Chris, I hope you read what I posted about Poli-Seal. I'd be interested to hear back from you after you perform the same test as outlined in my post.

Corey you bring up an interesting point, one that I’ve been mulling over ever since I started using OC/OG many months back. However I think you are neglecting what I would call normal paint maintenance. I think that you would agree that if you have prepped your paint and applied OC/OG correctly...

I really don't know how important the longer working time is. I swapped to OG about 2 syringes back and I really can't say that I noticed much difference between it and OC. Just as easy to work with as OC. I've had the new label version (layerable) for about a month(sourced in Australia), so...

It is certainly claimed to be tougher than factory clear. It is also meant to be more scratch resistant. Once you have OC on your paint you are maintaining the OC, not your clear coat. I've never noticed marring on all the vehicles I have it on. However like any paint finish it still has to be...

Yes I agree, after been warned not to I didn't attempt it. I guess someone did though and reported back to Chris or Dr. G. I've often been tempted to try multi coats, but got by with a double coat technique (still only a single application). One of the reasons I swapped to OG was because I heard...

I think maybe you misunderstood me. My point, if it wasn't clear, was that previously you couldn't layer OC/OG because it wouldn't adhere to itself, now you can. I'd called that a major change in the formulation. Therefore I was asking for an explanation as for the reason for the change in the...

Chris, The new resin is therefore a major change to the Opti-Coat/Opti-Guard formulation as it completely changes the characteristics of the product. OC was originally marketed as a product that resisted contaminants. The marketing went that nothing would stick to OC, not even OC itself –...

Hi Chris, I wasn't aware that I could layer Opti-Coat. My latest syringe of Opti-Guard (from Joel) has the car and logo, so I presume this also applies to OG. Is it just wait the usual 12 hours for the cure and apply the second coat or can it be done earlier? Is there any recommended...

Well I hope that embarrasses a few of you. I can't believe you guys would write off that paint just because it looked like that. Looks like a few reputations may have just taken a tumble!!! How about trying, before you do the big write off - needs a repaint, failed clear etc. I don't reckon new...

I hope you don't take these posts too seriously. Mark seems to have a new favourite on nearly a weekly basis. About a month ago it was Sonax Nano Paint Cleaner, (according to Mark, way better than 85RD even though it is not a polish) then it was back to the Menz polishes as per this thread and...

4 years of testing didn't seem to do them much good, based on the number of their blown pads you see here and on other forums.

That is a great video of an Opti-Coat/Opti-Guard application. However I still think there are a couple of tips that new users to OC/OG may want to consider. If you are doing a bonnet such as Rasky did, a safety measure would be to prop the bonnet open so there is no risk of accidently applying...

For a first time user it seems to be always the first panel that they screw up, probably because the pad does not as that point have enough product on it. As you move to other panels and add more product you then do have enough product on the pad, so you are less likely to end up with high spots...

I’d have to agree with that, your Beemer looks terrific. You’ve done a great job. Your BMW must be close on 15 years old and it sure looks like new again. On reflection, I think you probably found the brush cleaning technique inadequate because you were using UC. UC tends to saturate a pad...

Apologies if my post has upset a few of you. That was certainly not my intention. I actually don’t particularly care how anyone goes about cleaning their pads. I also agree with one of the posts, that there is more than one way to clean a pad and no one way is the correct way. What I did...

I'm sorry, but I find the above just totally ridiculous. Whether the above statements are true or not is totally irrelevant. I can't say I give a dam as to who has said what. The most important point of perfection finishing is too work as clean as possible and that means clean pads and change...

With due respect why not just buy the correct tool for the job. It is not as though a pad cleaning brush is an expensive tool.

Cyan pads do wear quicker than say an orange pad, but they do provide more cut than an orange pad. They are a very good pad for the compounding process, but you just need more of them as to do tend to wear quickly as compared to orange. Yours at this stage is hardly showing any wear. I would...

Ok that does really help because to me it is the finishing or fine polishing of paint that the most time is or should be spent to achieve the perfect finish. Since you’re a fan of M105, then there is no need to discuss compounding, other than to say that many people here seem to take short cuts...