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That's basically what I ended up doing and it was much quicker.. the problem areas tended to be right behind the wheel wells. Any help on.the timing between Dr ColorChip, essence and Cquartz? I am assuming I cannot use essence before touch-up paint because it contains some ceramic.

Another on/off topic question. I got the big stuff buffed out using CarPro ClearCut and now have a bottle of Dr ColorChip to fill in the road chips on the hood and a couple small ones around the panels. But my big question is when to apply it? Before Essence? How long do I wait to polish? Then...

Agreed that it isn't worth going through the clear as it is the daily driver for the wife. But I wanted to buff as nice as I could and CQuartz so she can wash at home (easier to maintain). If I take a couple passes of 2000 grit over the scratch it buffs out great with the ClearCut. Just sanding...

It seems to go away little by little. Can I use a thin wool pad to speed up the process a bit? Before 2 Buff: After 2 Buff:

I thought with ClearCut you are not supposed to use heavy pressure for the initial cutting. Only the final passes. Its the opposite of most cutting compunds. Hopefully someone that uses clearcut can chime in.

A quarter of a door at a time.

I have a 2011 Hyundai Sonata that I plan on using some CQuartz 3.0 on but I wanted to buff out the scratches. So I grabbed my CarPro ClearCut and the Meguiers microfiber cutting pad and went to work. I did what the instructions say, primed, then 7 droplets, start light and low speed of 4 for...

I don't think POR15 is a great underlayment for touch up paint or body sprayed paint. I may be wrong though. Would just like to hit a couple spots with a recommended rust converter it before he sprays.

Nope. There is no rust to speak of. Ground absolutely everything. In the grinding picture it was sanding dust. So I ground it out further to guarantee I got outside of the problem area then cleaned. No rusty line, just how the putty filled in. I could probably sand a little more to get the far...

I don't know what you mean from the seam? I ground out with a dremel down to bare metal in the shape of a trapezoid, you can kind of tell by where the putty lies. I wanted to go wider than the initial grind. Then roughed up with sandpaper for the putty to stick. It very well might have been a...

I pushed down the rain gutter and there is only a speck of rust there. I plan to use a little rust converter over it after trying to sand the spot. I ground off all of the surface rust above, it never pitted and I caught it soon enough. I can take a better picture of what the channel looks like...

Actually at a closer look there is on little spot that has surface rust that is lower on the ridge. I am assuming I can just use a solid rust convert before it goes in for touch up?

Actually have a good family friend who owns a body shop who's painter will color match and air brush it in. $75 at most. I do have a remaining question, what would you spray to help prevent the rust from coming back? Most forums say grind, clean, fill, then etch primer? How does it get through...

Yeah I figured that is the correct procedure... Just wasn't going to repaint the entire panel based on a thumbprint rust spot. I am fine if you can see it, hell, you could see it with the surface rust. Just wanted to slow it down and protect it. I have spent a lot of time watching youtube videos...

Well I got the inevitable rust spot on the ol' Hyundai Sonata... Right on top of the windshield on the roof of the car. It is well maintained and I want to keep rust of the car as long as I can. So, I ground out the old rust and used a 2 part polyester glazing putty to fill and sand with a 600...