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I wasn’t really impressed with the feedback from DoDo Blue velvet users on this forum, so............. I hear lots of good talk on the WolfGang Fuzion, but the price..........

Seriously:mad: $1100 for a tub. Im vexed at the $40 price tag on the measley 3oz cup of Wolfgang Fuzion.:mad:

fuzion... this one: Wolfgang Füzion Carnauba Polymer Estate Wax, carnauba car wax, show car wax, polymer wax, paste wax, Wolfgang German car care

I’ve been hearing a lot about “Hard Wax” like the Dodo Juice Blue velvet. I wasn’t really impressed with the feedback from users on this forum so with that being said………. What other hard waxes can you recommend for a black car that will protect and at the same time shine like crazy? I would...

I love the black car thread! You have the best polish in my opinion (Menzerna SIP's) Take the advice and get the smaller pads. The 5inch white & orange pads are best for correction work. Like they said... start with the white first and go orange only if necessary, but stay away from the yellow...

idk? what is that? But...... like I said earlier, I think the porter cable with Menzerna SIP should be good. I've heard other BMW owners say that the paint is near bullet proof on their cars.

Black car checking in and I must say that he PC with the Menz SIP works wonders. Do the BMW's have the ceramiclear like the Benz cars after 2003?

If I were to move into a flex from a PC... which model flex do you recommend?

Questions for all you guys moving from a PC to a flex... Which model flex do you recommend moving into (3401,3403, etc...) and dose the Porter Cable pads work with the flex? Does the flex have the same velcro backing plate?

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-forum/17193-wet-sanding-not.html

Natty Blue on white? hmmmm. I though this was taylored for dark cars. How about the Nattys Blue on a Silver car?

point taken, but I do keep extra pads on hand. The MF's get used at the end of the job to clean up the left overs.

yeah... true, but the less hand work the better for me. I do use the micoFiber to go around and hit the missed spots. side note: I wish the Nattys can in liquid. Applying this by hand is a chore and the static electricity I create can hurt sometimes. Maybe I should do it bare foot...

The white pads have the least cutting power(use white with polish)The orange has a medium range of cutting(use compound,swirl remover,polish). The yellow pad has the most cut power(i dont have a yellow). The grey also has no cut power and is best use for polish as well. The blue has no cutting...

ummm hmm and espeally on a big project like a truck. I have 2 white, 2 orange,4 grey, 4 blue and 1 red. And, yes... lots micofiber towels, because if one hits the ground.....on to the next one.

clay polish seal glaze wax sounds like you got it. Are you going with nattys blue paste wax? Oh make sure you have enough pads on hand, especially the blue and grey.

I recommend adding atleast 3 more grey pads & 3 blue pads especially if you are going to adding/removing sealant, polish & wax. The more pads the better... atleast in my case I believe the ceramiclear coat was added on the 2003 and up Benz cars.

I did some searching around on here and found three other veterans that basically echo’d the same thing as RSurfer, but I’d still be curious to hear from others who have experience using the SSR1 & SSR2 as a combo with the orange and white pad. Does anyone want to debate RSurfers suggestion...

Thanks for the education and I corrected my original statement. edit: wait... look at what poorboys said, "After using SSR2, refine the finish with SSR1. "

explain... I thought it was the more aggressive pad and ssr2 and then you work your way down to the less aggressive ssr1 with white pad. Its almost like wet sanding... 2000grit then the 2500grit and finally the less aggressive 3000 grit. ????