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I get through 4 month-long Cleveland winters with 845, boosting with Aquawax after each wash (and those washes are far and few between during the winter).

Looks like flimsy construction. Prefab?

Absolutely, Aquawax for me. However, I've used Eagle One when I ran out of AW and found it to be pretty good in a pinch.

Check out the link that Shade Tree posted above in Post #2. I found it very helpful, and I believe you will, too.

Thanks for the info, all. I like to top with 845, and will try the Duragloss 101 for a light polish this time. I plan on using a white pad.

Is it OK to top Duragloss 101 with Collinite 845? If so, is there a recommended cure time?

+1 on mineral spirits. Not all "paint cleaners" are alike.

You might try hitting the stripes by hand, first.

In Cleveland where the winters are brutal I finish with Collinite 845, or 476S. For the sacrificial layer, I spray on some Duragloss AquaWax after every washing. I'm satisfied with the protection and the shine.

Want a good OTC product to wash a car that is loaded with lubricity? Try an inexpensive bottle of baby shampoo. That's right, if it is mild enough for an infant's hair, it can clean the exterior of a car and it won't melt away whatever is protecting your car's finish, either. I've used such...

Since the heat of the sun never melted my sealant, I doubt that warm water - as opposed to cold water - would pose a threat to any product currently used by anyone on this forum.

OK, rephrasing the question: if the heat of the sun doesn't negatively affect a polished, sealed surface, how could warm wash water negatively affect the surface?

What negative effect does warm wash water have on a car's surface that isn't negatively affected by the heat of the sun?

If they catch your finger nail, they are worse than you think. Otherwise, the M105 with an orange pad should work. Maybe step down to Ultimate Compound and work it longer. Let's see what Mike says.

If you are not getting splatter until you are finished with your application/product breakdown and your DA is spinning at 5 or 6, simply turn the speed down to 2 or even 1 before pulling the pad from the surface.

There is nothing undesirable about the Armor-all car wash product. Dilute it in warm water, get it to suds up, and wash the whole car with it- not just the wheels. Unless a product is "boutique", it is below some peoples dignity to use it. But it works!

In lieu of M105, Ultimate Compound can be effectively used. It just might take a little longer to get the desired results.

I use Griot's "Hand Polish" with my PC with a white pad for a fine cut, with good results. Megs #2 with an orange pad works well for a heavier cut. Ultimate Compound is good for a medium cut on up, and I find myself using the UC in lieu of #2 with very desirable results. Thus, I'd recommend UC...

General rule for most products is apply above 40F, min.

I understand what the Scratch-x is intended for, but I'd like to know which product is more abrasive. I've tried both with my PC on an orange pad, and don't see much difference.