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I just applied DG NGCC to my second car. It can last up to 2 years which I understand is a conservative estimate. Is the DG NGCC considered more of a sealant even though it lasts quite a while? Price wise, it's in the ballpark of a coating.

Can you please clarify what is a power rinse and 2BM?

Just ordered the Tornador Foamer HP foam gun using an air compressor. Do I need to give the car a complete soak with the hose prior to spraying the foam on or will the pre-soak make the foam less clingy and just slide down he vertical panels?

Thanks, I did buy the GG 3" DA but will take the 3" backing plate off that and put it on my PC XP and use that as my DA for hard to reach areas. Only $ wasted is on the GC 3"DA and some 5.5" LC flat pads which I can use as back up (with the 5" LC plate on the Flex). Not too bad for a newbie...

That's an important point and not entirely obvious. I may have to change my order from the Flex micro plate to the LC 4 inch plate. Will the LC 4 plate overheat easily on the Flex?

Thanks for the quick responses. I'll get both sizes and maybe use the smaller on the more curvy cars so will change plates only between cars.

Moving up from the PC and am only a weekend enthusiast doing my family's 5 cars (some with curves Porsche 911 upto a large suburban). I'm going to order the Flex 3401 either alone and use the 5.5 backing plate along with the 6.5 pads but am concerned that it would be hard to get good results...

Thanks but my question was not regarding the 671 but the DG PCNo2 Buffing and Polishing cleaner #652 first followed by the need for a separate polishing agent or can I go ahead and use SC and NGC?

I just used the DG SMR (Swirl Mark Remover) #671 for my new black car which worked well using a Porta Cable followed by Squeaky Clean and 2 coats of Nano Glass Ceramic coating. I have an older car which is a truck and has been treated as such and never had a paint correction (its 20 years old)...

Thanks all. I have some ONR that I bought a few years ago but was not crazy about rinseless wash so I'll make some clay lubricant out of the rest.

Now that I am starting to detail my cars I am accumulating many different products which I would like to keep to an appropriate minimum. Regarding clay lubricant, can I use a QD such as Duragloss Fast Clean and Shine instead of buying a specialty clay lubricant. I'm planning on buying 1 or 2...

Thanks for the info. I have 4 more cars to do this summer as they vary from 5 - 10 years old and have never had any paint correction but lots of machine car washes.

Very new to detailing, just bought a Porta Cable and did my black 2007 Porsche which had swirl marks with great results using: 1. wash and dry using DG CCW 2. clay using Blackfire 3. DG Swirl Remover (followed Mike Phillips technique with 6 passes) 4. DG Squeaky Clean 5. IPA wipe down as the SC...

Thanks Klasse. How long from the last DGCNC to when you would top with AW or DG #111. Also, do you need to"polish" in the Squeaky Clean using a DA or is it wipe on, buff out product? I'm planning on doing another car so and want to minimize the amount of elbow grease needed.

I'm using DG Enviroshield as my first serious detailing project on my 2007 Porsche GT3 which I bought new at that time. Only 18K miles, driven to work about twice a week, always garaged and driven only from spring to fall as I am in NJ. Previously, I just used Rejex after washing and claying...