It wasn't meant to be topped, anything you top it with doesn't stick long anyway and most waxes/sealants just attract dirt/dust, which is the opposite of what you want.
CQuartz and Opti-Coat are LSP's, nothing further needs to done.
I found you need to shake BFWD VERY WELL. Not 5-10 seconds, more like a full minute. Then once shaken and mixed well, you'll need to shake for a few seconds more before each time you add some to your applicator.
I've had a bottle that was just like water but after shaking very well, it became...
Good grief...wth was she thinking?! :doh: Women and cars mix like oil and water.
Great turn around!! 52 hours is a looooong time for a single car and not even a big car, a little IS250. I hope she learned her lesson by how it hit her check book.
Great moogly googly, those are some bad looking panels!! :eek:
A friends BMW M3 that the dealership got ahold of, is the worst I've personally worked on.
Passenger side rear fender before (using halogens):
After (using LED flashlight):
No way I would ever consider not using gloves. With the plethora of chemicals used in all the products, why would anyone even consider not using gloves?
I use nitrile gloves from Uline. I buy them by the case.
Very nice! Sweet space to work in too!
If you want a durable sealant for the wheels, just put some CQuartz on them. I'm still amazed at how well it keeps brake dust off.
Both GREAT videos!
The only problem is they make it look easy.
I cringed watching the first video, seeing him sitting on the concrete floor with the polisher. I HATE sitting on the concrete floor with a polisher!
Use 5.5" pads. Avoid the CCS pads. If getting, LC pads get the thinner ones. If getting LC Hydro pads, keep in mind they finish down great but their durability isn't the best so it's a trade off imo between those and the LC flat pads. Better finish and potentially less steps vs. longer...