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i am going to guess it wasnt the automatic car wash they ran it through as they are usually touch free high pressure washes....it was the dirty towels the porter used to dry it off with, after the high pressure wash that didnt get all the dirt off...some dealers dont even use an auto wash, they...

even though its a brand new car, i would say do some good prep work to get the most from it.... i would as i do with every new car purchase.... clay polish sealant/wax you can probably get away with just a white pad with a pc/udm and xmt 360 or poliseal for your polishing.....

i use woolite or any liquid on gentle cycle.....dry on low heat.....

i dont use the handles anyway, as i assume most dont....but a fixed backing plate would make the machine a no no over others.....sory griots like everything else they offer, over priced and comes up short to other products....

is the griots machines backing plate fixed or is it removable.....i would opt for a smaller backing plate and 5.5" pads.....

if you have a 6" backing plate(?) then i wouldnt be using 6" pads....the backing plate will be too close to the edge of the pad for comfort....

always clay a new car.....always.... personally, i would full detail a new car, including clay, machine polish, sealant.....

i personally top poliseal with 4 star upp, then if you really wanted to you could follow that with your carnuba.....but i like a sealant for the durability...

there is nothing bad about the 6.5" pads, so i dont know where you heard all the negative stuff about them...they are the same pads as the 5.5 just larger and its easier to get correction with the smaller pads and thats why alot of people use the smaller ones.... i guess i am not familuar with...

nxt wont layer, nxt contains a mild cleaner which will remove the previous layer of protection that you installed....

clay isnt going to remove oxidation....clay is designed to remove embedded debris/particles from the paint.....

i have both xmt 360 and optimum poliseal, the xmt has more correction ability then the poliseal....both in my opinion require a final wax or sealant....

just make sure you take your time on the correction phase and everything else will look great....

my bad!!

true, wet glaze is not a glaze, but i dont believe it has any correction in it....its a wipe on wipe off that can be topped or used as a topper....

glazes typically have fillers and only last a short time....i would suggest most fanatics do not use glazes...about the only glaze i would use is danase wet glaze, which doesnt contain fillers, and is a pure gloss enhancer....you can use dwg under a coat of carnuba, over a layer of sealant or...

just about any mild polish with a pc/udm will work wonders on the clear bra....just take it easy, and dont be whailing away on speed 6 with an orange pad....

also, go to the autogeek store and view some of the videos that can show you how to recognize when polish is broken down....as a good rule of thumb, when it starts to dry and haze over, its usually broken down...use pc speed 5-6 with xmt 3 and 2 or any other polish you are using to correct paint....

even in the old days with the turtle crap you were using, less was better... as for the polish, when machine polishing, less isnt more, you will need to be more liberal with the polish as you need it more to lubricate and prime the pad correctly... upp is a product that shouldnt take more...

for thoes who do not use poliseal, i can tell you for a fact that it leaves a squeaky clean base for a sealant to be applied on to....poliseal may be an aio product, but i use xmt 360 as well, and 360 leaves the paint feeling like it has been sealed or waxed,and it has some correction abilities...