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I think I was using 0.5 oz per quart? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

D114 doesn't work as a clay lube. I've tried - it's really "filmy" and the clay doesn't bite like it should. It's hard to describe, but you'll see what I mean if you try it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Opti-Coat Pro Plus is a new version that was recently launched. It comes in a 2-part kit which includes the normal Opti-Coat Pro, and a special "top-coat" that is applied afterwards. The top coat adds some slickness, but mostly importantly, improves gloss and helps with the water spotting issue...

Hmm, I haven't had this problem before. Can you show up some pictures? Did you by any chance get the car wet after application? How long did you wait before leveling high spots?

That won't work - you'll need Iron-X. Degreaser won't be enough to remove the layer of grime that was built up. Does the surface feel rough?

The product should still be there. Did you try cleaning the surface with Iron-X? I have found that most coatings require at least 2 washes a month or else a film of dirt will stay on the surface and give the false impression that the coating has failed.

JSmooth and I checked out the car today. Both the KBM 205 method and wet standing with 3000-grit yielded no improvement. The etchings are deep and are likely from some kind of chemical.

Getting more efficient at low-cost, AIO services.

Pay a pro and have the wheels coated with Opti-Coat Pro. Wheels see harsh conditions and lots of chemicals, so you want the most chemical resistant coating out there. As an alternative you can try CQuartz DLUX.

5-6. The product dries out and starts to dust terribly if i went any longer than that. This was with a Rupes 21, speed 3.5 on a Rupes yellow pad. But I've only tried it on one vehicle, and it was on an Infiniti that had somewhat sticky paint.

Optimum is now including their new, soft blue foam applicators with gloss-coat. These applicators absorb less product and the soft construction makes it a lot easier to use (than the yellow ones).

I used about 1/2 of that amount and experienced some stickiness upon removal, but it was manageable. It definitely wasn't the easiest stuff to remove, but it wasn't terrible...either.

Try Optimum Gloss-Coat or CQuartz UK.

Autogeek's was the best price for me. They had a 15% off no exclusions sale recently.

Menzerna 3in1 is a great product. Very good cut and finish for an AIO, but is a bit smeary during the wipe-off process. I used it with the Rupes Duetto and Rupes yellow pad in this example.

The hood required claying as well but I left it alone after seeing what happened with the roof and trunklid. There was just a light layer of contamination - and that was what prompted the claying. OC 2.0 survived 4-5 sessions of the same mitt with no problems. UK survived one session with...

CQuartz UK has performed very, very well for me on the vehicles that I have installed it on. Very good gloss (even after 6+ months), great dirt repelling capabilities (bugs come off with garden hose) and decent resistance against light marring. My only complaint with UK is the need to use a lot...

The roof and trunk lid both failed after I lightly clayed the areas with a Nanoskin Fine Mitt. The hood, which was not clayed, is still going strong. Reload was still present after about 2 months. But do note that Reload goes from beading to sheeting after a few washes. I have since stripped...

Of course, but the level of slickness will vary significantly depending on the product used. I've noticed much great slickness with most spray sealants (versus Hydro2).

Sorry - I meant that Hydro2 belongs in a wash/seal type package. I've gone thru a good amount of Hydro2 in a variety of settings, so I feel qualified to comment on the product. Here are the issues at hand, IMO: 1) Performance - The average consumer expects their car to be glossy/slick after...