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It will be a long process, but it can work with the right pads and techniques. For the cutting process he's probably better off with using the Meguiars MF cutting discs though. With that said, it's a bit unclear whether he already has all of the products. If he does, then I take back what I...

I'm not in complete agreement with your process. First off, use FG400 instead of TSR 3.0. It will finish just as well and deliver more cut. Second, Menzena/Wolfgang polishes tend to leave a lot of oily residue behind. One or two wipes with Eraser may not adequately remove the oils...

OCDetail or Immaculate Reflections. Both offer Opti-Coat Pro, but Immaculate Reflections offers CQuartz Finest.

Two tubes of Gloss-Coat, two tubes of Bullet proof, two bottles of squeaky clean and a can of Topper!

Paint is paint, at the end of the day. I would see if you can get some training with some individuals who have more experience with a rotary. Most dealers, even high-end ones, just want the cars to look clean and shiny and without wax/compound in the cracks. They're not going to be going over...

What you said makes no sense - unless FIAT paint is extremely hard. Even then I'm skeptical. If you only had minor defects, why would you be using M101 to remove them? The skill level of people on this site are all across the board, and a lot of these claims should be very carefully reviewed...

HD Polish is dust city, but is an extremely good finishing polish.

It's production work. It's certainly do-able in 90 minutes with a rotary. You'll probably be using an AIO type product and claying with a nanoskin-type device. You're going to have to learn how to use a rotary if you want to survive in that environment. I don't think any DA is going to...

If it works for you, why would you need to change? Change is not always a good thing.

I have a very hard time believing that any car that was one-stepped with M101 would look very good after polishing. Either Duragloss's coating has some serious filling capabilities, or your standard of "looking insane" is not in the same ballpark as mine.

I usually use the same speed for polishing and cutting. Usually it's between 3-4.

Exo over OC? Will it properly bond?

Stay with the Rupes pads on the Rupes polisher. I've found little reason to use anything other than Rupes Yellow polishing pads for medium polishing and/or finishing. The Yellow pads cut and finish incredibly well. I am finding that these larger stroke machines work better with firm pads than...

It really depends on the abrasive technology, the amount of haze/micro-marring you are trying to remove, and the paint that you are working with. The 6-8 passes technique will not work on every finish with every product. For instance, a sticky paint that is being finished down with a...

Talk to CarPro, but I think 70-80F would probably be ideal. As little humidity as possible, of course.

Yes, unlike UK, 2.0 has an indefinite shelf life if you keep it sealed up tightly. Follow this video on the application process, or else you'll get major streaks in hot weather: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9rAM78oDffM

I've used both 2.0 and UK, and contaminates and road grime are far more easily released by UK. There's no comparison. Save the 2.0 for wheels -- that's where it really shines.

Microscopically smooth = is that a fancy term for slick? I would recommend CQuartz UK or the new Optimum Glass-Coat. I've been very happy with UK myself.

Thanks for clarifying.

The high spot issue with 2.0 was something that you could greatly minimize if you simply adjusted the application method. If you use the CarPro Block with CarPro's suede applicator, several back/forth and up/down passes on your work area will even out the coating so well that in warm...