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it came with a yellow 4 inch polishing pad, i think that would do just fine with the cleaner wax

thanks bob :xyxthumbs: thats what i wanted to read

i can only spread it with a DA? what can i expect if i attempted to work it to a residue like i would with m80 speed glaze

i was just curious, if i wanted to apply meguiars cleaner wax paste (regular consumer version) with a DA power system for some light paint cleaning (to make the paint feel even smoother and glossier after claying) do i use the polishing pad? and how do i apply it? work it till you can see...

i recently had the experience of clear coat failure, in my case the paint was originally single stage, some clear had been sprayed over it, and i had no success in trying to polish it

is it just me or the pads that come with meguiars waxes like gold class paste are softer then the ones sold separately

thank you brother , this is what i wanted to hear, we just wax so much because the the sun here is so strong and then there is so much dirt, the car needs washing every second day so we wax just to be careful. i will go for #21 then, the meguiars products just arrived in pakistan (thank you...

GC = gold class paste wax, yes it is a daily runner, its on the road most of the day and exposed at night

HI everyone, i wanted to know if it is bad to use a pure wax like meguiars #26 too much on single stage paint (by too much i don't mean applying thick, i am referring to the frequency of applications, my car gets around 4 coats each month), i just felt that the paint develops a whitish layer...

maybe i am wrong. but this looks more like colour tinted lacquer to meFeed back please

why not just wash it and then clay the other car's paint off

Id like to know, (1)If i can enhance the flake pop by using a glaze to mask swirls after a thorough claying session. (2) does the nature(natural or synthetic) of the wax used after the glazing/polishing affect the flake pop. currently i am using meguiars #26 for my cars.

and you are? (sardarsaeed i bet :P)

if you have the correct product and technique then single stage is easier than clear coat, in my case the paint was hazing when i used uc. then mike advised m7 and m80 and this combination worked great for me, i used meguiars foam pads and loads of elbow grease :)

were you careful when using the pad, sometimes this kinda stuff happens due to uneven pressure distribution, usually more pressure at the fingertips, and it makes scratches wherever your fingertips move, but the maybe the application wasn't the problem, the part you tested removing gave good...

you mention that the paint feels like chalk, that makes me think that you are dealing with single stage paint, i would go with a dose of m7 show car glaze and some fine abrasive. i think both these products are available in large sizes. sorry i do not have any experience with spray abrasives

it really depends on the condition of the paint and how well you can work the #7, if both factors are good then you might not need to go to any abrasive product at all. Grab some #7 and do a test area, this will help you learn how to work it into the paint and also will give you an idea of how...

in my opinion 1. wash 2. clay 3. again wash (optional) 4. M7 show car glaze 5.wax if the surface still doesn't look good after the show car glaze then wait and then reapply #7 the next day. if still not good then go to M80 speed glaze (don't omit the #7 in any case, it really makes compounding...

whatever the condition i would recommend a good application of M7 show car glaze before compound, i do it with a cheese cloth, makes it alot easier to get it to spread uniformly. i just restored a panel of my car's single stage and did it according to Mike Phillips guide. to experiment whether...

i prefer mothers detailer spray and dodo juice born slippery concentrate. Armorall detailer gives too much lubrication, doesnt let the clay pick the finer contaminants,