i guess u could spray more clear, but i think you will end up with some ghost spots. I think it is better to spray clear. should be more cost effective.
apparently, power finish is a hybrid or mix of SIP and 106
here is a good article explaining most of the polish/compound from menzerna
Menzerna and Lake Country Polish Reference Charts - Autopia Forums - Auto Detailing & Car Care Discussion Forum
i think it will be less, the number comes from turtle wax. if they say 10% wax their car, then people would think that they do not need to wax their cars.
also some people consider the tunnel wash with wax option is a good wax that last too.
i think you should machine polish after hand reconditioning
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/25304-secret-removing-oxidation-restoring-show-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html#post314262
i do not believe i am wrong even according to mikes article. i do not believe that the OP is using enough water. op is using a light mist on the disc.
"Damp-Sanding Tools, Tips and Techniques by Mike Phillips
Damp-sanding is a machine sanding technique. Damp-sanding is like wet-sanding only...
my mf pads are perfect........ i think you need more water to damp sand, not just a mist like a pad conditioner. water should be dripping/near dripping. also, i believe you need to soak the pads in water first.
read those article. number 7 doesnt cut, but can rejuvenate, you can follow up with polishin/compounding to see how well your paint is first instead of cutting into it first...
not neccessary. he should work least to most aggressive.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/25304-secret-removing-oxidation-restoring-show-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/31073-dodge-neon-extreme-makeover-dodo-juice.html