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You can try another AIO and see what it does... But I'd probably go to a straight polish since you already tried Klasse. That's really all you can do. If the polish doesn't remove the stain, then you're pretty much SOL. Gasoline can permeate the finish and permanently or semi-permanently stain...

Yes, to the second question. You won't know how it feels until you use it. Once you start using it you will learn its tendencies. Like the previous responders have stated, it will want to drive itself, or walk around, more than you are used to coming from a random orbital, but that's something...

Regardless of whether it's plastic or metal, If it were me, I'd try a Trim Restorer product. Something like Meguiar's Ultimate Black Plastic Restorer.

I use Meguiar's Ultimate Black Plastic Restorer on my tires. Although it's the liquid version... I haven't tried the spray version, but I might one day. My vehicles (truck and motorcycles) don't get driven very much in inclement weather and as such my results may be better than those on a...

I have found that every microfiber that I have used will lint to some extent. Some are worse than others, even within groups of the same type and brand of towels. Glass is one area that exacerbates the problem, but also, each of my vehicles are black and the black finish is just as bad as...

I've got who I believe to be the best PDR guy ever. He was recommended to me by my brother-in-law who uses him at his body shop. I've used him twice now and both times the results were absolutely as close to perfect as perfect can be. The first time was several years ago to repair a few dents...

There are a lot of things (and ways) to cause swirls, but I don't think "paint shrinkage" is one of them. Think of it like this... The majority of paint shrinkage occurs in the hours and days immediately following the paint application. It continues throughout the curing/hardening process, but...

Yep! That's what it sounds like to me too. While you can improve the appearance in the short-term, the failure process has already begun and whatever improvement you make will be limited by that fact. The improvement will not be long lived, and the finish will continue to degrade at a faster...

One of two things... Have you tried re-wiping the panel? It is possible that what you are seeing is actually smudges from the polishing product not being completely removed during your initial wipe. At the time of your initial wipe, the polishing oils were "wet" enough to conceal the marks...

Typically, when it comes to fins, I'll polish the edges using a cotton glove on my hand (or hands) with a small amount of metal polish spread evenly across the palm and fingers of the glove. You have to use the polish sparingly so as not to stain the flats between the fins. Get as much of the...

S100 Engine Brightener.

Looks Nice!

I agree with the metallic comment. When I said "black", solid black is what I meant. There are many variations of metallic blacks, but personally, I don't even consider those as "black" regardless of the color name. To me, black is black, and that is solid or pitch black. Anything else is not...

Black! No if's, and's, or but's about it. As far as hard vs. soft goes, generally speaking it's easier to remove defects from softer paint but it can be finicky getting to the final finish. Hard paint is typically just the opposite... it takes more effort to remove the defects but it's a...

Generally speaking, there is no such thing as OEM touch-up paint. The paint you buy from the dealer is supplied to the OEM by a paint supplier such as PPG, Axalta, Glasurit, etc. These same paint suppliers also provide the paints used at the factory during original manufacturing. So, whether...

Most paints specifically marketed as touch-up paint are acrylic lacquer. While lacquer has its benefits, primarily it is the fastest drying of paint types, that fast drying nature is also a curse. You have very little flow time to work with. The paint starts to set-up very quickly and it's hard...

My black Chevy Colorado gets Meguiar's 205 or 210 for routine polishing. While both are considered finishing polishes, the 205 is slightly more aggressive and will remove swirls faster than the 210. Either one will finish out beautifully on my paint. As far as your concern for burning up the...

It's worth a try.

Nitrocellulose is a type of lacquer paint used in early automotive finishes. Not sure of the exact years it was used, but when I started painting in the 1960s, it had already been replaced by acrylic lacquers. I would think any modern lacquer thinner would work for you. Acetone would also work...

While this is always an option, I'd go the PDR and paint touch-up method first. Doing so will retain the factory paint on the door and that is always my number one priority if possible. It's easy to repaint the door and make it look better than the original paint... It's harder to make it look...