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cut the boots off and be done with it...all they do is trap dirt and crud inside and wear the shocks out faster....you may not believe me but they don't do their intended job of keeping dirt out.

i got one of the vaccuum powered upholstery attachments for my shop vac, it cost like 15 or 20 bucks and works great.

considering the fact that it could be replicated easily with about 30 to 50 bucks max. in readily available parts i would not waste 180 on it.

he should've used a sanding block, pad should've been primed...both pads were dirty (look at the edges), buffing in direct sunlight, no light to inspect after correcting, i would bet money that area will be nothing but holograms once all the fillers and glazes left behind wear off.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09nq3CTa2y0]Deep Scratch Removal using Xpert (Hyundai) - YouTube[/video] so many things wrong with this video, i thought i'd share it with everyone here.

barebones undercarriage spray

cured globs on concrete? or residue/staining from concrete being splashed onto the paint and rinsed off before it cured?

do not use it, the stuff is pure junk...i cleaned dried and treated a pair of work boots with it gave more than 1 week of cure time inside, (after it stopped stinking up the garage) and the first day i wore them it rained and it worked amazing, day 2 and it didnt repel water at all, still...

nice job, jankerson...now post these up on jeepkj and show everyone over there your results. oh and welcome to ago!

no need to write a book for this one, the OP asked what he could use...he didnt request a full write up.

does it look like tar spatter and chunks of rubber (black/brownish color)?

1:4 dilution still gives and insanely strong mixture imo...i cleaned the wheels on a neglected 02 f350 and it took only 2 applications at 1:10 to get them 100 percent clean...i cant imagine every needing it a 1:4, let alone full strength.

id suggest stoner tarminator or rustoleum tar remover available at walmart in a 31 ounce bottle...or finish kare soil and coating remover

wheel brightener at 1:10 dilution (1 part wb:10 parts water), spray, wait 5 seconds, agitate, rinse off

for gelcoat a rotary would be the proper tool, a flex 3401 might do the trick if you have one, use either wool or a high cutting power foam pad also, get a product meant for gelcoat, 105/205 wont do a whole lot on gelcoat, and using a da on it is putting a lot of wear and tear on the polisher...

i would reccomend the flex, i bought a pc for my first polisher and liked it, but after mastering it i wanted something that could work faster, quieter, and to be smoother operating, i now own a flex and havent touched the pc since....but to answer your question i would say the gg is more bang...

SEM HEADLIGHT UV COATING > all

i saw this video a while ago, this is sadly the midset of most "prep detailers" at a dealership, i worked at one where the guy thought 3m trizact finishing polish sucked because it didnt remove scrathes, i pointed out on the bottle that it says it is meant to remove 3000 grit sanding haze, not...

im sure the fk system works well but when i used it the only thing i disliked about step 2 was that there is no feedback to let you know the product is done working, where as iron-x changes color (the bleeding effect), the fk decon system worked well for me though, but i plan on switching to...

looks like rail dust that is starting to rust embedded in the paint, try using clay or preferably iron-x or a similar iron removing product.