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you will need either a rotary or at the very least a heavy cutting pad for your da, i would reccomend going to a napa with a body shop center and picking up fareclas gelcoat restorer/conditioner...its like$13.50 for a bottle.

this x1000, the customer is not always right and sometimes the customer is an outright ***hole. unfortunately most managers in retail and services side with the customer over their own people.

there definitely should have been an upcharge for extremely heavy soiling inside and out, unfortunately from the sound of it you work for a detail shop or car wash that passes the buck onto you, the guy came in and expected a miracle for the price of the cheapest detail package the shop...

anything with fillers is not body shop safe regardless of what the manufacturer says.

the only body shop safe stuff i would suggest is farecla (not sold on ag) or 3m's newer chemical cut compounds and polishes (also not sold here),

wash it with nothing but a shampoo, (no wash and wax, no shampoo+conditioner), wait 1 month before you wax or seal it or correct it, and use extreme care when polishing it, i would use up or 205 on a white pad and see where that gets you before using compound or a cutting pad, do you have a da...

Just to clarify this is the inside of the windshield...they dont take much outward pressure from inside the car to break...ill try claying to see if I have any luck...if I cant get rid of the issue im thinkng of buying her a new windshield as this one seems to have gone through hell and back.

I was cleaning the windshield on my girlfriends car when I noticed that there appears to be either a chemical stain or etching of some sort on the inside on the windshield...I couldnt get it captured in a pic but whenever the glass is wet it looks like there was a chemical splashed on the...

this thread makes me feel way better about my pricing, the cheapest i've done an exterior for so far is $80, for one of my friends, his brand new (about 1 month old) hyundai sonata, i washed, removed bugs, cleaned the wheels and tires and sealed the vehicle (took about 6.5 hours total) also...

the best fix i have ever seen/used for headlights was made by sem but it does require a uv lamp to cure, and the prep work is extremely important.

the only 100% fix would be to re spray the entire liftgate, but that would be at least $300 if you remove the gate and bring it to a shop to have painted. i would extremely lightly wetsand to level it out (2000grit or finer) and the use megs ultimate compound and polish to blend it better, i...

IMHO i would skip a polisher for now and save up for a flex xc3401, i would get a kit together that would allow you to wash, clay, glaze and seal by hand, do a few jobs to save up and then get the flex and do corrections. i would skip traditional clay and get a nanoskin fine grade wash mitt as...

Definitely upgrade, i bought a flex a few months ago and it makes me wish i had never bought the porter cable...the flex is better in every way i can think of.

I used to think the same thing but ill be honest after using the flex to do this i don't ever want to go back to hand applying sealant, although i may still stick with hand application of klasse sealant glaze. the machine put down a perfect thin coat and it was insanely easy to wipe off.

Thanks for the help guys. Mike, the 2180 was a thin product so that was definitely a contributing factor, i will be applying another coat later on this month, i'll use the kissing the finish technique and report back, i think i might also try the ccs smart pad for applying it next time and see...

I finally took the leap and applied sealant by machine, (finish kare 2180 by flex xc3401 on a black finishing pad), it worked great but i did notice that i used a ton of sealant, most of it was soaked up by the pad. the pad was 6.5" diameter and about 1" thick, is there a way to avoid wasting...

You can sand basecoats to level them you just have to use fine paper and solid colors if you sand metallic flake you're gunna have a bad time. You should hqve primed the entire surface not just the bondo patches

heres the unofficial list of what you did wrong: 1) you didnt remove the hood and bumper prior to painting 2) if you wetsanded before painting i'm guessing you didnt use anything more aggressive than 1500 grit, should've used at least 800 to give the surface tooth. 3) you didnt block it...

I have used lucas slick mist tire and trim dressing, it has a nice matte look, is water based, but honestly i would go to a place like big lots or ocean state job lot and get whatever they have available, it'll cheap and work well.

yea i always liked going there when i was little and im glad the change didnt turn the food to poop though.