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Bob are you serious?

I use the yellow applicator that looks like a fat 8. It has a dense soft black foam on the business side. This doesn't absorb product and doesn't squeak. Use it for all coatings.

I would go with the C4. It works really well and so far (2 years almost) still looks like new on windsheild moulding. Wurth makes a Trim Coating (really a paint) that is self etching and it resores to factory black. Used the Wurth on the plastic inner fenders and after 1 year still look like...

I have the very same experience with "Flash". Got a set of 2001 Grand Prix wheels which looked like they had not been cleaned on the inside since day 1. They were dark brown (funny same colour as "Flash") and about 3 mm thick. Did my usual clean method (followed Flash instructions) plus I...

Steamer or Tornador will work. Cheaper way is spray APC and toothbrush and blow air.

I use the Duster all the time. No big deal even on the black single stage stripes. If I see any swirls I just polish and good to go. Nicest part is it takes 5 minutes.

Brown Royal and green ScotchBrite pad. I scrub off all the crud very aggresively to the point it is dull. Then compound and Polish with normal paint correcting technique. That's assuming they are factory paint and not powder coated (can't find any info on how to polish powder coated stuff.

I would paint them. Get the paint code from the dealer (need the VIN). Sand with 400 grit, filler primer, sand with 400 grit, 2 coats color and 2 clear will look like new. If you want the original go to the original. These wheels are painted at the factory with special wheel paint and...

I'm not sure I am getting the point here. You apply a compound or polish and remove the residue. You clean before any LSP. What is the question?

Just did my new tires with Tuf-Shine. Tires are blooming terribly because they are new. Been getting brown after 7-10 days (coated). Took 2 applications of Tuf-Shine for it to turn white. Really like the fact it goes white when the tires are clean. Funny, my old tires only needed soap...

The Griots PFM is what I use now exclusively. Am only a hobby guy, so high volume is not that important. They work so well (I use the 16 x 16 size) that all my others are going to be obsolete. A must have if doing ONR. I have had some PFM knockoffs (don't know what they called when I bought...

Just to put some closure to this thread, the C5 lasted the whole winter on powder coated wheels. Barrels had not been touched since put on car. I cleaned the barrels and they look like the day I put them on. Dirt came right off with just soap and water. Beading like crazy. Summer wheels...

Do the baggy test. Then Iron X. Baggy test. Tar remover. Baggy test.

Windsheild Washer Fluid if it is Latex Paint. I had some on my leather jacket from when was painting a wall and didn't notice for few days. Put some on rag and let dwell for 5 minutes and it came right off.

My sediments exactly.

Car in my avitar is my only car and a daily driver. 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GT original colour Dk. Bronzemist Metallic (can still get to pop with the right products). Currently 295,000 kilometers (178,000 miles). After market all leather custom interior and absolutely no rust. The outside is...

I use mine rarely because it is only my car I do. What I've found is that water vapour is nature's best solvent. It will dissolve almost anything with a small bit of aggitation. I never use APC with the steamer. What I really like is you can spray the steam into places you can't get a rag...

Most of this is from the fastners holding the part to the body. The paint is fine, but the problem still is the bleed drying on the paint. Pressure washer and air blower should keep the dripping to a minimum.

I have used the Permanon Platinum for last 3 years. Got a 1 liter bottle (way more than I wanted at the time). Was going to replace it with Hydro2 until I read this post. Now not so sure. I had zero issues with the Permanon after using it on body and wheels. Did not know it worked on...

I'm in this camp. Spray water and wash with soap. Rinse with clean water and apply Iron X. Let sit in shade 5 minutes (don't let dry) and rinse off. Applying it to a wet car actually is better as it will migrate into areas you would not get to if dry (dilutes it a bit but not much). Next...