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See if you can get the decal for the ECOTEC. If you can repaint it with a plastic paint and put the overlay back on. AG sells the Wurth Trim Coat which is what I use.

I change mine one time per year. Originally the car did not even come with one (2001 Grand Prix). Cuts down on foggy windsheild in winter and smells better.

This is totally off the wall but Xylene might work. Take a small sample and put in mixing bowl. Put a small amount of Xylene and wisk it (mixing thingy). If it works on the sample try on the bottle. I used this on some old Poli-Seal and it still is mixed.

It has been replaced with Optimum Gloss Coat.

LC ThinPro 3.5 " will make you happy. They transform the GG3 into a dynamo. Rotation way up, correction way up, heat way down and waxing a very quick application. Get the 6 pack and try them for yourself but they work for me.

Not sure why you posted the answer to your question.

For me, what it's worth, the wheels don't really get all that hot. The brakes get hot, the wheel not so much. Now compare that to a black car in the Arizona sun, and not much difference in enviroment. The thing with wheels is the hot iron particles (from the rotors) and the hot brake dust...

I think the "high spot" fear is largely over worked. If you follow the manufacture's instructions you won't have any problems. The problem mostly comes from the "more is good" idea. Every coating I have used say "a small amount goes a long way". I just follow that advice and have never had...

That looks like the 2" pad on the rotary attachment for the Nano? Thought you were only to use the 1" with the rotary attachment?.

Same here. GG 3" red ThinPro pad and good to go. So easy and so fast, takes like 10 minutes to do whole car. I use less wax than I used to by hand.

Optimum Glass Protect Put it on brand new windsheild 3 years ago. Beads water like crazy still. Unfortunately the DD windsheild only lasts short tome and then it's pitted or cracked. Need to replave but will coat again (my cost on new windsheild is a reasonable $200.00).

Well went with the Sonas. Tried to get the air brush to work, but no go. Sprayed on using the bottle it came in and put more product on than I should have. Used a Q-Tip to soak up some spots and let dry 1 hour. Looks really good (satin finish vs glossy shiny) and streak free. Thanks for all...

Snow squalls and -9 C, not good outside detailing weather. Looks like another garage detailing weekend (will it ever end?).

2 buffing cycles of 5 section passes? Seems like alot?

Well got to thinking about a spray on product for Plastic (the grilles are not textured) and remembered, I have Sonas Trim + Motor Kote. Have only used it on the inner fender of front fender as a toughness test (only been on a month and really been really cruddy winter weather so haven't given...

Not sure if it has been established if this is plastic with a tint. Normally tints are applied to inside of panels or mixed into the glass if OEM. If it is plastic it can definitely be polished out with a product not sold here. I tried it today on a piece of plastic with a defect you could...

I do have the C4 Permanent Trim Coating and it might be the answer. I will consider using a Q-Tip and painstakingly apply it one drop at a time (it does go a long way on my other trim I have done on the car). I find it has lasted 8 months on my trim around the front and rear window mouldings.

Looks promising but can't ship aerosol to Canada. Maybe source in Canada?

I would spray Gloss Coat but that would use alot of product(like 1 syringe at 90.00).

The grills are out of the car and in perfect new condition. I have an air brush so never thought of using it to apply coatings (good idea). SiO2 products I have are not sold by AG so I did not mention them, but the 1 I have bonds electrostatically(- to +) and doesn't work on plastic).