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Well, we live in a world of snowflakes now. You will have to learn to deal with it. I once was banned from a FB group for saying to someone that insulting someone for asking a question was not the best way to help him. The guy I said that to was the moderator (I did not know but it really...

Unfortunatelly not, I have seen them on ebay and amazon but never purchased any. I use the 250$ one, always been happy with it. My guess is the cheaper one are not gonna be as precise or they might not be durable. But if it's for a personal use, I bet they will be plenty useful. You want a...

Ya, Hyperdressing is the superstar of the dressings IMO. It works amazing no matter what dilution you use it at and it's very inexpensive. I used to dilute it 4:1 but latelly I have upgraded it to 3:1. Most people like shiny plastic, so at 3:1 it 's more of a gloss than satin look. Anyway...

I always spray on microfiber when inside the car and sometimes spray on the window itself on the outside. Never noticed much difference. What does make a difference is the product you are using. So far my top 2 are Armor All Car Glass Cleaner, and Stoner's invisible glass. I used to use...

So many things to say... First off, compounding is not gonna remove deep scratches. You are gonna need to wetsand to do that. Second, foam pads are not good at removing scratches. You can do it but it takes a lot of time and effort. If you want effeciency on a DA, you need to use microfiber...

Why? The coating give a great semi-permanent barrier of protection that no sealant or wax can offer. If you want to top it with a sealant, especially a SiO2 one, then you get the advantages of both. The only case I can make about long durability coating is that once they start to get...

You are right, this is why a yearly decontamination of the paint is advisable. This is what I offer to my client: Chemical decontamination once a year to remove road film, iron particles, tar, sap and dead bugs. Once this process is done, the coating should be hydrophobic again, but in the...

Hum, they must have changed their process, I clearly remember not wanting to use Cquarzt because of the multiple layer requirement and time between layers. Thanks, I will look into it then, maybe that will be my next 2 year coating.

Armor All supposedly changed their formula a few years back. It is true that Armor All used to dry out rubber and vinyl, I doubt it does anymore. It is important to have something on the tire to protect the rubber, try to stick to either a water based product or a coating. Silicone based...

I did not know that. Everytime I purchase from Autogeel I get an email asking me to review the products. Maybe they use the results internally to select what products they offer? In any case, I don't think a review system like Amazon has would be much help. People review the products when...

No, the decon did not help. Of course you get hydrophobics back when you apply reload, but that comes from the sealant, not the coating. Cquatz is no good because you need to apply multiple layers. I can't stay there for 4-6 hours doing nothing while the first layer dries.

The claims on these products have to be taken with a grain of salt. First off, they are all semi-permanent, so they will stay on the paint until you remove them. On the other hand, maximum effectiveness of the product diminishes with time, and what you normally loose first is the...

Wow! That is crazy! Here in Canada, 15,99$ per bottle at Walmart.

When there is ghosting, a good compound and polish usually either removes it completelly or reduces it a lot. Anytime you debadge, you should be doing a 2 step correction afterwards IMO. Post some pictures when you are done.

Reset is a degreaser soap from what I understand. The idea of that product is to strip anything that might be stuck to a ceramic coating. So if you use it on a sealant, I would expect it to damage it.

Try to soak a paper towel with the product and slap it on the area where the glue is for 5 minutes. The paper towel will prevent the product from running off and/or evaporating away. It might make the difference.

You mean things like Fiat and Mini coopers and WW Beetles? ;) Some cars appeal more to women, nothing wrong with that. Actually it's a good thing cause most of the other models are more geared towards men.

Glue will melt with many solvents. If you have tar remover that is solvent based, try that. Rapid remover is supposed to be amazing, but I have never tried it.

Forgot to post the link:

I understand, it's just that the description you gave included all sealants. I think a good rule of thumb is that if a sealant cannot be used on trim, because it will leave white residues, it will be the same on mate stripes. And any product that is safe on trims, would also be safe on mate...