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Like I originally mentioned, its not so much that I question the coating and manufacturers, I'm just questioning why, at least for me, it works exactly the way it supposed to on one vehicle, and not on another, which were both prepped and coated exactly the same way... This hasn't turned me away...

2014 Mazda 6

Kinda starting to feel the same way..

The beading and sheeting were my main concern, it did still clean easy, but beeding and sheeting are kinda the main reason I did the coating.. for example less susceptible to water spots in breeding and sheeting are good..

Wash, clay, ironx, tarx, polish with carpro fixer and reflect, multiple wipe downs with eraser then coat in an enclosed environment

Did multiple times, ironx and spotless, used carpro reset to wash with

Yes

I had coated a car with CQUK a while back, did all the prep work, took my time, coated it twice, tried to do everything by the books, but after at least a month or so the coating on the hood, roof, and truck lid was almost gone.. The other areas still seem to be holding up, but the previously...

So what polish/pad combo did you use?

Anybody thing maybe doing a light polish by hand would be a better option in this situation than machine polish.

I was wondering if anyone has experimented with polishing CQUK or any similar coating to remove minor imperfections, light marring or swirling, or water spots? I have used Carpro Spotless with great success to remove water spots from CQUK, but there are still a few that I feel only polishing...

I have used Reset on a regular basis to wash a vehicle I coated with CQUK with great success, works well in a foam cannon as well, a little goes a long way and does a great job cleaning the surface and rinsing completely leaving just the pure un altered coating. My question is I was thinking of...

Thats another side of the whole argument, toppers only seems to pertain to increasing water beading or shedding, only the coating minimizes marring and maybe swirling effects, the toppers won't.. So the use of a topper, while it won't be long lasting and won't prevent marring and swirling, it...

I don't know were this threads going but I understand the argument that there isn't a point to "coat" a coating as it would indeed take on the new coatings characteristics.. does make sense.. but at the same time I believe that using the "topper" designated for each company's coating (EXO for...

Yea I know, right, cant just ask a simple question here.

Thats what I figured and was kinda the whole thing I was going for in this thread. Thanks for the reply..

Not sure what your getting at, but those are two different threads, that one i commented on after i made this one... no link between..

Yes the companys who make the coatings offer a spray or topper for there coatings, and while that may seem like a sales ploy of some sort I still believe they know a little more than we do about the coatings or we would be making them ourselves.. If you research these so called toppers they are...

Ive read it was the other way around that net shield was the topper for nano lack...

Only wax ive seen come close to it is collinite 476 or 845.. but the sonax is still so above these two..