Search results

Cleaning on the fly definitely helped with my most recent buff/polish on my truck. A clean pad works SOOO much better. Thanks Mike for the plethora of info you share with us.

Turns out, my GM clear coat is pretty hard. I had to end up using an orange pad with Ultimate Polish to get the paint nice and clear. I did an IPA wipedown and my Griot's paint sealant is dwelling now. Once I wipe her down again, it can cure overnight in the garage. Carnuba wax to come in the...

Thanks for the help Mike. I may hit a few panels once more to get it just right but I don't think it's too bad. You can only see very slight micro marring when the sun hits it in one perfect spot and my Griot's sealant may hide it, but I like my rides to look good. Here's a few pics:

Now it's all coming together. I did notice after a while that the pad wasn't rotating like it should. I do have my backing plate marked, which is how I noticed. It's going to be the terry cloth method for me from now on.

I started with an orange pad and UC on speed 4-5 to get out the scratches and the webbing, then moved on to a pink pad and UP on speed 3-4. This is on factory black paint. I'm thinking part of the problem is I didn't clean the pad often enough (it is a big Tahoe) and the DA speed was too slow...

I've gotten rid of quite a few scratches and some spider webbing on my Tahoe but have some slight haze/hologramming when the sun hits it just right. I'm wondering what would be the best combo to get rid of this and leave a smooth, sealant-ready finish. In my arsenal I have: Griot's Garage DA...

I will be following up the UP with an IPA wipedown then applying my Griot's sealant then top with the Griot's Best In Show carnuba wax.

Thanks Bob, but I'm trying to figure out which of the ones I have now (pink or green) will work. The pink is just above the white pad and the green is just below.

I'm finishing some correction on two of my cars (both black) and was wondering which LC pad I should use with my UP. I don't have a white polishing pad but have both the pink (light cut/polishing) pad and the green (polishing/finishing) pad. I just finished with the UC on an orange pad and have...

Understood

Yeah I'm not talking about old wax or wax residue. I'm just trying to save some time waxing my monstrous truck. Maybe I'll switch and use the rotary to apply the wax and remove by hand. I have a harbor freight rotary with settings from 200rpm to 3300 rpm. What pad or bonnet should I use to apply...

I have a Chevy Tahoe and was thinking about using my rotary on a very low speed to remove wax to save time. I will apply by hand but thought about using the buffer at 300 or so rpm with a microfiber bonnet to remove. Thoughts?

I'm going to take a look at these... Tuf shine lasts a minimum of about 2-3weeks for me before re-application...and I wash at least once a week.

Im currently looking for some opinions on some dry to the touch tire dressings. Right now I use tuf shine and love it but a 6oz bottle is 25 bucks plus shipping. I wonder if there is something comparable out there that works as advertised. I like a little shine but nothing super wet.

As for the pad being flat, I think its as flat as I can get with a LC curved CCS pad.

Opie, you hit the nail on the head. I do have the Harbor Freight one....lol I'll try using a little more product and ditching the handle.

The panels definitely weren't hot. The truck was in the garage, which is where I did it. I don't know why the pad skips on me, but maybe I'll try a test spot with a white pad after seasoning it and see how it goes. My rotary has 5 or 6 speeds and I was using 3....It ranges from 200rpm to...

Could I slow the rotary down a bit to extend working time? Alko, you mean misting like with the KB method?

I'm buffing out some light scratches and swirls in my Tahoe and am having some trouble. I'm using a rotary with an orange LC CCS pad with Meg's UC. It seems that the scratches are coming out little by little but I've gone over a section a couple times already and I may need to go over it again...