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Hi guys, little back ground.. working at a body shop.. sanding fresh clear with 2k, then 3k. First step is m105 with wool ( I really like the 105 cut) and it doesn't dust much at all. followed by an orange LC wool with HD adapt, then white LC with adapt My problem, I'am finding that I hate...

no one has input??

Hi guys, little back ground.. working at a body shop.. sanding fresh clear with 2k, then 3k. First step is m105 with wool ( I really like the 105 cut) and it doesn't dust much at all. followed by an orange LC wool with HD adapt, then white LC with adapt My problem, I'am finding that I hate...

ok, i think I'll end up going with the m100 and the black HD wool pad. Really a toss up between Megs and the OHC i suppose..

how do i know which is the newer one? lol

i didn't pull the trigger, still reading here as well as autopia to see what the best bet is.. hopefully some folks chime in on the wool pad of choice. thanks for your info though!

thanks for that chart! which wool pad do you recommend setec? I hear lambswool is good. I have been using this brand, https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=schlagel+wool+pad but I have been having hazing, should i switch?

will do. Since you used it before, does it leave alot of hazing? This doesn't really matter to me, just trying to better understand the product.

This looks like a good deal for sure. Thanks! This is a bargain esp. for a body shop. A big gallon for 50. I like it. Has anyone had experience with this? I'm leaning towards m100, or this optimum.

I'll try m100, i'm using a rotary.. should cut fast? Also, what wool pad do you guys recommend? This is for cutting bodyshop clear

Thank you for that input, i was hesitant to pull the trigger on it.. only because of price. What does the cut of FG compare to?

fg is expensive... sheesh! lol

For those of you who have used these two compounds, which provides more cut (using wool) ? I've used m105, but dusting is a big issue for me. (This will be used for wetsanding btw) thanks guys!

Coming from a painter, this seems to be "dry" Take 1500, and sand the entire car with it. I say this because you need to rid the orange peel from the surface. If you just scuff the car with say scuff stuff, the peel will remain when you reshoot. Shoot at a tad big higher pressure next time. Do...

Yea I've seen AG when heading up north. I will definitely make time to see them (if i don't figure out this mess within the next few weeks) But with all the help I've acquired, i might not have to. We'll see.

Mike, mind linking me to a good one to go with the m100? I'll be ordering some goodies tonight from you guys.

Hernandez, after all polishing, assembling parts, etc. we do a regular wash. I've used the m105, but the dust is unbearable for me. Say i do quarter panel with the gas tank, it gets caught up in side and leaves white and i have to take time to wipe it out by hand etc. With the HD cut, dust was...

Crap, I'm taking my radiology boards on friday or else i would make the trip up to stuart to see you in action! What color is megs 100 btw? Blue, or white? Skimmer, i'm going to look into presta.Thanks bud.

setec, i'm in south florida :x eric, we don't feel like we need to reduction sand. It would honestly be a waste of time. For me as a painter, our orange peel is almost spot on. We simply use 2k for minor removal, and 1500 to take out dirt nibs.

thanks for all the replies guys. I'm using 2k grit with a d/a sander. actually, it isn't round though, it's square. Back and forth motion. Not orbital. I've been sanding for quite some time. We actually use to sand with 1500. I convinced my dad to use 2k grit. 1500 was way too coarse, after...