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Holy cow! I count 35+ large tubs. I would have to think those tubs hold upwards of $500 worth of supplies, so that's a large chunk of change in that shed. You must have several locks on it lol.

I'd caution against a HF polisher. I had the same thought a few years ago when I bought one of their inexpensive rotary polishers. I figured doing my own cars once or twice a year would be fine. I was wrong. I only got partway through I think the second time of polishing a car and it died...

Another point with the badges and trim: You're not necessarily going to damage badges and trim with a DA, but you will likely damage your pad if you hit up against badges or trim.

Sent you a pm with a possible closer one.

They probably overstocked them here with the short summer season. I did do a brickseek and several nearby Lowe's have the 2000 psi version on clearance. Not all have them marked down, but a few do. I'm guessing only northern states are going to have them left.

After coming back to Autogeek recently to see research what the best polishes and pads are these days, one of the threads got me thinking about getting a pressure washer and a foam gun. I was on Slickdeals last night and saw that Lowe's has Greenworks pressure washers for a very cheap price...

Yeah, that's how I've felt. My last car was a Pontiac Bonneville, and I had a hard time getting swirls out even with the Menzerna Intensive polish. I haven't done any cutting on our current cars, just a light polish on mine.

Well, you are working in the detail shop of a GM dealer, so you've got a lot of experience with those paints. I'll have to consider the Megs. I know they have a solid reputation.

Hey there. I hope they are a good place to work. I used to go to church with the owners. Nice people.

It's been a few years since I cared properly for our dd's. Getting ready to stock up for spring, and looking for suggestions. I have the GG6 and have a 2011 Buick LaCrosse (white tri coat) and a 2014 GMC Acadia (red tintcoat). What should I try this go around? I currently have the old...

Wow, pretty embarrassing work from the painter.

I would just offer a discount on details for the electronic shop's owner(s)/employees, and nothing more.

Probably right. I did think of doing it against the yellow, but I've tried the yellow before and it did leave hazing. So I didn't think it was worth while.

Hey, I saw your question about DAT polishes with mf pads. I just used my Optimum cutting pad last night for the first time. I used Menzerna SIP, and it finished out great (black paint). I didn't have good enough light to say it removed all swirls, but I could tell it finished out very well in...

Well I just got the Optimum MF cutting pad and wanted to give it a whirl last night. I'm pretty impressed. My experience is limited to Menzerna SIP with an orange LC flat pad, and I wasn't totally happy with it's ability to remove swirls. It does a nice enough job on my Pontiac's paint, but...

I just got my GG a couple weeks ago. The box says "Professional", but the actual unit and the manual do not. Both the polisher and the manual say 2-3 for waxing and 4-5 for polishing.

Since no one else has replied, I'll give my amateur opinion. I don't know if there is a clear cut answer really. Not having experience with more than a couple of polishes, I'm assuming most react differently from each other with different pads. I would probably try the #3 on the white pad to...

Buy a DA, you won't regret it. I never tried polishing by hand, but I've always waxed. When I first bought my PC several years ago and did half the hood of my car (10 year old Olds), even my wife could see the difference and she doesn't normally notice things like that.

I can't complain about it's look on black (that's my car on Autogeek's Collinite page :) )

I would think the panel approach is tougher because then you run the risk of running over a freshly completed section with your first compound step and having to go over it with the final polish again.