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I do and haven't had any problems. I've heard some people say that you should spin a DA without it against something, but really don't follow that logic. I plan to continue drying my pads that way, as it cuts down the drying time from a couple of days to more like 30 minutes or so.

Something that I learned that really helps is to put the pad on your machine and spin it for a couple of seconds. You might want to spin it inside an empty bucket so the pad does fly off and fling across the garage! Also, this prevents you from spraying water all over your working area. Before...

That's what I thought too. And then I say the CCS Spot Buffs 4 Inch Foam Pad Kit... ...which comes with 4" pads yet a 2 3/4" backing plate... Doesn't quite make sense to me.

Yeah, PC 7424XP

I'm looking to pick up a smaller backing plate along with some smaller pads. Right not I have a 5" backing plate and run 5 1/2" pads, but there have been a couple of instances where small backing plate and pads would be really helpful. I can't decide if I should go with the 3" backing plate or...

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Here you go...

Black. I'll do a test spot and see what I'm up against.

What year was the car? I ask because I'm going to correct a '92 C2 and wonder if the paint is also hard.

Same thing at the North American International Auto Show in Detroit. I think I was driving my friends nuts pointing out all the swirls...I just couldn't believe it....

I know you said what's on hand, but I don't have any experience with any of those products in removing water spots, and this product can be found inexpensively and most likely locally. The water spots I had to remove were really bad. I mean bad! I first tried to remove then with Optimum...

I'd be willing to pay $200, but really can't warrant any more. I'm going to check out some shops and see what they say. I figure quality tint film would cost me at least $50, and then I would need an assortment of squeegees, which I would probably never use again.

I'm going to take my car around to a couple of shops and see what they say. Looking once website for one shop around here, they want over $300, and that wouldn't even include my front windows!

I'm looking to tint the windows in my Volvo 240, and like most things, I like to do it myself. However, everything I read says "leave it to the professionals". Well if I left everything to the professionals, I wouldn't have wound up here learning how to properly detail my car, which not only...

I'd be careful about saying "...as a learning experience for myself..." as I would want someone who knows what they're doing working on my paint, not someone looking for a learning experience. Otherwise, create a rapport with them. Show them you're genuinely interested in their car, ask...

This is what I would do if it were me. Well worth the money to give me the piece of mind knowing my car is safe in storage while also being able to park in a warm and cozy garage when the wind and snow are blowing.

That white foam pad that came with your buffer isn't what youre going to want to use. Your going to need to pick up a hoop and loop back plate and some buffing pads. Check out this comparison chart of all the Lake Country buffing pads. Autogeek Buffing Pad Comparison Chart

Cool, I'll see if I can't find some local. Thanks for the suggestion. I figured I won't be able to get all of it off, but if I can make it look better than it looks now, I'll be happy!

I picked up a set of used wheels for my Volvo, fully knowing they're not in amazing shape or anything. Eventually, I want to get them refinished, but that just isn't in the cards right now. So, my question is, what can I use to clean these wheels up for the time being? I got them off a car that...

Unfortunately I don't have any OPC. The only APC I really have in Simple Green, which I haven't tried yet.