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Sorry , I was referring to the original poster....

I'll guarantee that according to your pictures, You are going to need a compound or sanding.......... You'll just be wasting your time with a polish for the initial cut.

If that is oxidation and not surface grime on your last picture. I would go with something as davidc previously mentioned.... That's allot of oxidation for 1 yr. even for black in a subtropical climate.

That is true . That is why understanding the amount of oxidation or just surface grim is important to a boat detailer. You can't depend on the manufactures label to constitute what is light, medium or heavy oxidation.. Because there is no real industry "standard". So it boils down to the...

Could it be that you didn't remove enough faded pigments in those areas. The polyester resins and pigments usually decay at different rates of time just because of the different molecular structure. The Color of the pigments also effect the rate of decay. I've heard some people call these dry...

No blogging here yet ...... 3 straight yrs of growth.

I always try to use AutoGeek for our products. And we do for products we like but can't get wholesale.(Sales tax exemption). The problem is that Autogeek is a retailer and so is this forum. So I don't feel it's fair to Autogeek to share better product prices on this forum. There's not a big...

We always discuss detailing the gelcoat ..... What do you Marine guys like to use for the upholstery,metal and plastics? My sons like 303 protectant for the vinyl upholstery after a deep scrubbing, but for maintenance between full details they use Meguiar's Vinyl & Rubber Cleaner/Conditioner...

Yes, I guess I did. But I was looking for some discussions, to help the paint and clear coat guys that are making some expanded growth into the gelcoat.

The only differance between light and heavy oxidation .... Is the amount decay on the top surface. You most likely will still have to compound in to fresh resin and pigments even on lighter oxidation.

Waxes and sealers = LSP's, protectants and shine enhancements. Compounds and Polishes = surface conditioners. Buff Magic = A DAT compound/polish surface conditioner. 3-M Imperial Compound is a good product if you prefurr a "wet" compound as comapired to Buff Magic, a "dry" compound. They...

No matter what product we use or if we need to sand with 1000 grit , we always prep the surface first ,in heavely oxidized situations. Since Buff Magic, especially pink, has fine DAT jeweling capabilities, we don't burden the products ablity to cut in to fresh gelcoat and breakdown to a polish...

DAT is your friend.

Buff Magic in capable hands = no extra polishing.

Now we are not experts in RV detailing .... But when we do RV's , we use 2 -4' metal A frames with an expandable aluminum plank...the plank we use expands to 16'. This way we can set up one time to cover 20' in length up to about 12' in height. Plus your feet won't get fatigued standing on a...

That one passed over my head. I hate when I miss a punch line.

My sons downsized from an 8" to a 7" twisted wool when using Buff Magic. They said it gives them more control to manipulate the horse power of thier Dewalt rotory, thus utilizing the product more efficiant..

We tried that and it was a complete failure. Nothing against Megs microfiber pads, some combinations just don't work well together.

When gelcoat is that oxidized, the first thing to grab is somthing like a Sia 6120 Siavlies Maroon or gold on your rotory to prep the surface.

I agree, that boat looks fantastic. .........but 50 man hours on a 31'er. That vessal must have really been nasty. Did you give him a price up front or did you stroke him on the back end?