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welcome to AGO, I am in Albany as well...I would be glad to lend a helping hand and teach you some stuff. -chris

About a year ago, a guy I went to high school with started a detailing business, asked everyone to like and share his page, so I did. then I began to look at it and found out quickly that he was quite ill prepared for this endeavor. His business page outlined his detailing process but all that...

I can't tell you what the best is, but here is what I prefer and why I prefer it: Klasse high gloss sealant glaze. why? -it is easy to apply, (using the damp MF applicator and small 1 ounce atomizing spray bottle) wipe on/wipe off -I can add a bit of it to a gallon of whatever QD I use as a...

there are a couple things to keep in mind, obviously the 5 year "shelf life" of the ATF is a CYA for XOM. but the reason they have it: someone at some point probably had a bottle of ATF that was 20+ years old, had crud in the fluid, (or moisture), used it anyways and made XOM pay for the damage...

look into bullet liner as well (basically the same as line-x, the guy who started bl worked for line-x before it was bought out by dupont)...and yes the premium is worth the money imo.

yea when i did the f-350 i destroyed an orange pad. i did the whole hood with one pad on speed 6 (the pad was pretty hot) and when i went to pull the pad off of the backing plate it tore away leaving behind the velcro and some of the pad. but as far as correction is concerned i would say they...

is this HJ from JKJC? i have used the orange compounding pad and the blue 1 step pad they have a decent amount of cut i used them on an f-350 that was absolutely hammered and an enclosed trailer to clean up the single stage paint...they worked well for the tough jobs and i wasn't worried about...

SLIP2000 carbon killer

my thought would be to coat them with a truck bed liner type product like duplicolor bed armor or line-x, i don't know how much it would affect the sound deadening of the fabric though.

no problem, it's a lesson learned for both of you though, he now knows not to cheap out on paint, and the best advice i have for you is if you are ever unsure of what you are working with, don't do it. my guess is that the clear coat/color coat/primer were not compatible with eachother, couple...

go to an autobody supply store to get everything to repaint...from the sound of it he cheaped out on the rattle cans and essentially got model paint or craft paint...also unless the paintwork was done correctly, prepped correctly, and baked after it was finished: 2 weeks is not going to be fully...

look into sintered metal 3d printing. i forgot the name of the company but they successfully printed a completely assembled and fully functioning 1911, threw a mag in and fired every round without any issue.

what kind of machine do you have access to? fdm or sla? if it is just an fdm then i would make the flat cross pieces that support the grid a bit thicker so they dont break easily (fdm is for the most part fragile in comparison to injection moulding or sla)

if you ever get a chance to take pics i'm sure i'm not alone when i say we would all appreciate it

buckets...hard to wash a car without one. seriously though the basics: quality shampoo, sealant, microfiber, glass cleaner

i do this and then a light might of distilled water of a mf towel just to be sure, that process hasn't disappointed me yet.

rust converting or stopping products are junk including the original por 15 (they have a lot of good products but the original paint over rust product is absolute junk IMO and experience)...you are much better off removing the rust by mechanical and chemical means and painting the bare metal...

do not use wheel brightener on the wheels, iron-x, clay, and trying other "safe for all wheels" cleaners would be my approach, (maybe use finish kare soil and coating remover).

for the paint i would use a finishing polish such as m205 or menzerna sf4500 (if there are any swirls), but one thing i would change in your process would be to clay first then use a paint cleaner. also the use of something like iron-x or trix to remove embedded iron particles would help before...

the only difference i have seen is ease of application and removal...ultimate requires very little effort to spread and remove. nxt takes a little more elbow grease to remove. i would say durability is about the same.