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you can make your own exlilir for a lot cheaper. Onr/reload with distilled water. Ive been using it for a drying aid lately and love it.

Thank you everyone!

I just downloaded "LinkedPhone" , its 14/month and you can pick number you want and it forwards to your phone. I just got it but seems good so far.

4 hours including coating install? That's a good pay day right there!

By next month my shop should be up and running. What are some AP cleaners everyone uses without breaking the bank? I currently use F bomb and OPC but those are pricey for just a gallon size and sure I would be going through that twice as fast being fulltime then I do currently. Thank you!

respectfully, what are you getting per car for the essence/PNS combo?

I went to RITOP in 2004! It was a cool experience. I agree with this also. Just because some is IDA certified doesn't mean they always have the real world experience of someone that is not IDA certified and has 15 years under their belt. most of the time its all just for bragging rights. IMO

it was a simple question and just seeing what others did. Guess I will try with using wool pad.

This was more towards the ones I see that go right to wetsand and compound to reduce heat into an extremely beat panel. Does it do more damage or not, basically. Guess I should've stated it totally different.

correct. paint that's trashed to where it would be faster to sand and polish out. I have plenty of experience wetsanding and knowing when and when not to. this is just a general question This is more of a topic Im just asking about. I see a lot of detailers online and IG that go right...

I get this, but Im wondering are there any major differences from sanding 3k versus long passes with a MF pad and say, m100.

and from a lot ive read and watched you can remove more with a rotary, wool and m100.

I've seen this talked about before and just wondering on people thoughts. Thinking of more effecient methods and thats when the sanding and polishing come into play. Do you hit it with your DA or Rotary with your pad of choice and compound of choice and have at it? Or do you 3k sand and...

I went to a school out in Costa Mesa, CA. It was 2 weeks and then back to home. Its tough because for the 2 weeks they show you the basic techniques and then when you're home, your basically by yourself trying to improve when you really don't know how things should be. I can do small dings...

not sure I would say to put them on a list to never go back. its a constant learning process, just like detailing. Everyone has to learn, right? Ive done PDR for the last almost 2 years and everyday is like learning something new.

I checked some locals websites and was surprised on their going rate, which is nice for me. Amazing how much prices can change from town to town. Glad I will be working in the area where people want to spend that money instead of being cheap.

I do a lot of audis and vws. Oberk and a MF pad make the paint almost last step ready. You will need a heavy pad for cut and polish.

I want to eventually do IGL for my pro coating, but currently Im using System X system X currently. Looking to offer more than 1 brand. I do, my current area, that's huge. I have a wash, clay and seal package along with an "enhancement" and seal package.

hey everyone, so Im going to opening my own shop here by the beginning of the new year. I have been doing this out of my garage for the past 5 years and have been detailing for the last 15 years. Now that I will have overhead, Im looking to restructure my prices. I see some people charge X...

you like it? This is the one Ive been seeing the most of. you like it? makes for a better curing process, correct?