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also bodyworked these fenders after they were epoxied. I did the metal work, filler work, primed them blocked them, and polished them. They are lazer straight now. The other fenders weren't the exact year so they got replaced. Nothing is wrong with them damage wise-DOH! A LOT of work to...

we did this car a while back but they since got into a wreck on the left side so I had to re do the quarter panel and while at it I melted out the lead seams plug welded the seams. I did everything on this car but paint it. Solid red is just as hard as solid black. The light helps to find rogue...

cool, thanks guys. I'll give it another shot. Maybe I was pressing down on the buffer to hard. Will mark my pad next time out.

For solid blacks and solid reds I'd like to implement a DA buffer into my procedure. I was thinking maybe using it with a white lake county smart pad with compound after using a white 3m pad with 3m rubbing compound on a rotary buffer. The problem is, the compound is really hard to wipe clean...

so what kind of wool pad are you using? I feel a normal auto body paint jobber doesn't have all the choices I've seen here in the website store , but I'd love to pick some brains on that. Out here it's just a standard wool pad. braided or non braided real or synthetic. I've read somewhere that...

hahahaha. It will also make you "buff" buffing with that. :props:

I am trying to implement a DA polisher into my procedures and use it after I compound with a rotary and right before I polish. I was thinking a white pad with 3m compound (purple bottle) would do the trick, being that it's the only compound we have other than Meg's 85 diamond cut. The issue I'm...

Hi, my name is Henry and I work at a shop that does insurance work and high dollar restorations. I can do bodywork, paint, and cutt and rub so I'm all over the place at work. Lately I've been doing a lot of the buffing on the high dollar jobs and I'm trying to leave behind the old wool pads and...