Search results

Some people are sharp and pay attention to changes and some don’t. You can’t force them to “get it”. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You don't have to apologize............We understand.

I just purchased 303 Aerospace protectant for preserving my rubber seals among other surfaces. Do you feel that the contents of this is a better product for rubber surfaces in autos?

You're probably right. I'll find out soon enough as I am going to put it on my wife's MDX, which has lighter colored wheels.

Meguiars yellow.

I bought some McKees 37 foaming wheel cleaner and their wheel coating and decided to give it a go. 1. Washed the wheels and dried them. 2. Clayed the wheels, rinsed and dried them. 3. Put the wheel cleaner on and very little color change to red. (I must have removed most of the brake dust with...

I have the McKees wheel coating and I'm wondering if it would be ok to apply to my polycarbonate headlight lens. Has anyone done this? Never mind.................I just ordered a bottle of McKees headlight protector spray. Hopefully this will prevent the lens from fading. I hate the look of sun...

I am also interested if 3M or whoever makes these that are customized for each make and model vehicle. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

+1 on the rubber wheel. Takes it off completely and doesn't harm the clear coat if done correctly. I used a 3/8 electric drill so that means no need for dremel type speed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I used the 75% DG 921 to 25% AW for the first time as a QD yesterday and the gloss and shine was amazing. The only problem I have is I had already purchased a gallon of AW when I should have bought a gallon of 921 considering the mix ratio. This mixture competes with sliced bread.

Try warm water first. I know this sounds crazy, but I have had great success removing adhesive residue by running warm water over until its saturated, then rubbing the adhesive off with my thumb. It's important to peel off the top layer as much as possible as it often will repel the water. There...

Blimey mate!

Can't figure out who HW is. Acronym thread is broke.

I have this and it has plenty of blowing power. My only issue is the long tube is somewhat unwieldy. Would be very nice if they sold a short attachment. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm kinda new to this stuff. I sealed my car with DG105, topped that with DG111, and then put DGAW on full strength as LSP. I just bought a spray bottle for mixing the 75/25 mix of 921/951. Of course I have to wait until my car needs to be washed to try it out. Looking forward to giving it a go.

Not a lot of pop, or reflectivity.........yet. I washed with DG901, clayed, P21S paintworks cleanser then DG105 with DG601 mixed. I have DG111 arriving Monday and will put that on it with DG601 mixed in, then on the the Aquawax.

No one made the statement that carnuba is dead. I originally asked the question "Is it necessary to put a carnuba over a sealant (in my case DG105) if the carnuba would create a issue when I decide to reapply the 105 for continued protection. I was asking in the context of bonding issues...

Anyone ever tried Z2/601?

The only reason I can think of is because of how much I paid for the 915. If the 105 with a monthly AW treatment will provide protection, I believe I will be content. Besides, I plan to use AW diluted with either distilled H2O or FC&S on a weekly basis. I also just purchased some ONR that I plan...

I've been reading how great AW is (assuming full strength) and also reading that if used too many times at full strength that some dulling can occur. So my question is..... Should I just dilute it with something like DG921 fast & clean shine and not use the AW at full strength? I know some say...