Very loaded question here.
What kind of car, what kind of paint? Original or repaint? What condition is the paint in, and what kind of defects are you trying to remove? More importantly, what are your expectations for results?
It's impossible to recommend a pad/product combination without...
"Boosting" is a process that's been around for some time i.e. popping a couple drops of a heavy cut compound to up the cutting power of a polishing step while retaining the finishing characteristics of the polish being used. I don't see any issue with that, it's a pretty nifty tool in the...
Thanks to the lovely winter season we get here in RI/New England, I've been mostly shut down for a few months now. The detailing season really is only April(ish) to October. Much outside of that, it's too cold outside to wash cars.
I decided the other day that in order to build on some decent...
Well, when searching around I came across this thread, here it is almost a year later.
For anyone interested, I've started using a lot more of the BOSS foam pads and have all but phased out the thinpros in the 5.5" space. I have since swapped my G15 for a G21 but am still using both washers...
What environment were they stored in? Extreme heat/cold or freezing?
The soap should be fine, just about everything else I'd probably chuck and get new.
I haven't tried Citrol yet, nor have I tried Tarminator which usually is viewed very favorably.
Personally, I always keep a 1000ml bottle of TarX on hand. I just haven't found anything else that works better, even Gyeon Tar falls short of TarX IMO.
Jescar compound works very well by hand on a MF towel. Tend to usually take care of women's fingernail scratches under the door handle with that combo.
The flaps on them are pretty sturdy. I just try to keep the jet of water focused away from it and mop any standing water on the flap quickly, or i'll stuff a microfiber in it before i start.
I bought a bunch of the Rupes wool pads recently and decided to try them out on a black GTR I was working on. Being brand new pads I expected them to shed a bit, so I spun them up and brushed them lightly to get some stuff out of them.
Once I primed it as I would a Microfiber, and started...
If they're really hammered, i'll vac them out, soak down with a high foam shampoo, agitate with a drill brush attachment, and then pressure rinse, repeat as needed. Let them dry out in the sun or vac them if need be.
Specific stains would get degreaser or appropriate cleaning agent prior to...
certainly do. Traditional cap style? Blast it with appropriate APC dilution according to how grimey it is, agitate with brush if needed, pressure rinse. Follow with one of two secret (aerosol) ingredients to dress.
The capless ones require a bit more finesse though, drop the pressure for...
I am fortunate enough to have multiple uncles and friends with garages who are willing to let me use them to work in, you might want to explore that option.
I would not apply a ceramic coating outside of a garage.
I think some leather now also has tinted coating. In general, if I start seeing transfer I'll drop down to the Griot's 3 in 1 spray as it cleans OK, but not aggressive enough to pull dye out.
I am not a fan at all of OptiSeal as a drying aid. Far too streaky IMO. It's better applied in my experience after the car is dry, one spray per panel (two on larger ones) with a MF towel to distribute and buff. It's probably the most compatible product as FUNX650 alluded to.
Any spray...
Eldo, to generate some more foaming I'll spray it into my brush and then a light mist on the surface of the seat as well. Those perforated seats I try to be careful of to avoid soaking the foam. But if the leather isn't perforated, and it passes the dye transfer test, I tend to soak the real...
Will it remove it? Yes it will.
Are you talking about only using one pad? If so, you need more. Don't forget that you'll not only get polish residue but also the SiO2 residue loading up the pad, which will inevitably mar the paint even if you're diligent about cleaning that one pad.