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This way cool though. I'm sure it's a very interesting class! [emoji846][emoji106] Sent from my SM-G988U1 using Tapatalk

Sorry, I went to buy more sandpaper & stuff. I've been using 3M wet or dry sandpaper. I actually went at it again with a 1000, after confirming that the car had at least 7 coats of clear, and it's still flattening, so it's looking better. I'm just trying to be very conservative and that's why...

Using a hard block Sent from my SM-G988U1 using Tapatalk

The entire car done was cut with 1000, 1500, and 2000, at times with pneumatic DA and in part blocked by hand. Sent from my SM-G988U1 using Tapatalk

Some pics Sent from my SM-G988U1 using Tapatalk

I'm not sure sure you're of car it is. I'll add a picture right now. Sent from my SM-G988U1 using Tapatalk

No texture at all - just some degree of waviness all over. Even with 1000 there are still some pinholes too, besides the waves. He said the car had 2 gallons of clear applied to it (its a large one). It's not mirror flat - only about 80-85% there. I just don't want to eat away all the clear...

I'm wet sanding a car for a friend - like a Lowrider type of car. But after either block or pneumatic DA, the paint job still looks more or lest wavy. Sent from my SM-G988U1 using Tapatalk

Hey, guys! I'm just wondering if you think there's any substantial difference between sanding a new paint job on a classic car with, say, a Rupes pneumatic sander (Skorpio III) vs hand blocking it. Are there any advantages or disadvantages with either method, you think? I've seen both methods...

Hey there! That doggie might have to skip a treat or two... [emoji6] As for the scratches, I would try some 3000 grit sanding paper (usually comes in a sponge-like cloth) and some rubbing compound after that. (If 3000 takes too long to level the paint, maybe 2500 or even 2000.) After the...

Maybe a spongier (or slightly smaller) pad can get you into those harder to reach to areas - just be sure it fits well in your machine. Sometimes hand polishing is the best or last resort, depending on the part. Sent from my SM-G988U1 using Tapatalk

Honestly it looks exactly how a wet-sanded part normally looks like - nothing different. The problem is this kind of material or coating just doesn't level up like a traditional clear coat.

Yeah, definitely, specially if I can't figure out what chemical or compound reacts favorably with that particular material/coating. I believe that if I had sanded away any particular layer, I should at least see some smoothing out of the remaining material, but hardly anything changes at all...

I understand, and that would be the easy way out for me - or even replacing the parts. But I got very interested in learning why I haven't been able to buff it out. I think it's a good learning opportunity.

I did the exact same procedure on other people's cars with no issues. It's the material that's different. I tried contacting Tesla to find out what coating these parts have to no avail. Also, I tried plexiglass polish with no better results. Sent from my SM-G988U1 using Tapatalk

Rotary, and by hand as well. The sanding marks acted as if I was didn't exist, pretty much. [emoji52] Sent from my SM-G988U1 using Tapatalk

The scratches were deep-enough to need some sanding - that's why I did it, like I have before in Mercedes & BMWs, for example, with no problems like this. This is the first and only material that has baffled me like this.

Let me try

Hey there, guys! I was hoping that someone here has been able to efficiently color sand & buff scratches off a Model 3 center console glossy parts. I was able to wet sand the scratches off, but when it came time to refine and polish, lo and behold, I was completely unable to finish the process...