2017 Ruby Red GT350 Paint Decontamination, Paint Correction, Ceramic Seal

H

havasu486

New member
Joined
Mar 9, 2015
Messages
63
Reaction score
0
2017 Ruby Red GT350 Paint Decontamination, Paint Correction, Ceramic Seal are finally completed. Thanks to my great friend Roger, Klasse Act, for all his effort and advise.

A complete step by step process with pictures to follow..........
 
Your welcome Ted, can't wait to see all 3 phases of the pics! I'll add my pics once all of yours are loaded.

Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk
 
I'm excited to see the end result for this beautiful ride. Not just a Mustang but a gt350. And in ruby red. I'm glad you dont live near me, because with that car driving around I know my car won't get a second look haha.
 
WillSports3 said:
I'm excited to see the end result for this beautiful ride. Not just a Mustang but a gt350. And in ruby red. I'm glad you dont live near me, because with that car driving around I know my car won't get a second look haha.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I searched and searched, held out and found exactly what I wanted. Ford did this one right.


Sent from my iPhone using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
The car started out clean.

Note, the wheels were removed a few weeks previously, decontaminated, cleaned, and the Optimum Gloss-Coat Paint Coating was applied at that time.
 
On Friday the weather was dreary but I was able to complete the paint decontamination process before the rain.

First I utilized the Griot's Garage Iron and Fallout Remover. Normally I complete everything from top down but to avoid getting too much water on the lower panels of the car I went from the bottom up. I liberally sprayed the product to one panel at a time, waited three minutes, agitated the product with a soft sponge, waited until the product started to show signs of hazing which was previous to the recommended three minutes, and rinsed the panel well with a garden hose. This was completed top to bottom always keeping the thoroughly rinsed and wet.

Next I utilized a Griot's Garage Yellow Clay Bar Mitt while the car was still wet from the rinse. I also applied a mist of Griot's Garage Speed Shine. Once the car was completed I was disappointed with the feel of the paint after drying it. I followed with the Clay Bar Mitt and Speed Shine. The car felt better to the touch but I was very disappointed to find the paint failed the baggie test in a big way. I guess the paint on this new car was worse off than I imagined.

Finally I went old school. I broke out a new Pinnacle Clay Bar and utilized Pinnacle Clay Bar Lube on the entire car. Finally, the result I was wanting. The car was ready for paint correction.

(I attempted to post photos but technology is not my friend right now, I will keep trying later)
 
Chemical decon is never a be all end all, the clay bar/mit should always be followed up with. I'm surprised that on such a new car it failed the baggie test after iron remover and yellow Griots wipings. In the end, the clay bar finished off the task, a 3 part decon!

Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk
 
I find sometimes when you use a QD as claylube with a claymitt or something, especially a finer one, the QD needs to be cut half half with water other wise it's too lubricating and won't get everything. Chemical decon will work IF your car is properly sealed with something durable enough like.. glosscoat or Cquartz UK. After winter, I felt a bunch of contaminants on my car but sprayed it down with fallout remover and washed it last month, paint is smooth as glass again. Nothing will protect against brake dust completely of course and that's what causes the roughness.
 
WillSports3 said:
I find sometimes when you use a QD as claylube with a claymitt or something, especially a finer one, the QD needs to be cut half half with water other wise it's too lubricating and won't get everything. Chemical decon will work IF your car is properly sealed with something durable enough like.. glosscoat or Cquartz UK. After winter, I felt a bunch of contaminants on my car but sprayed it down with fallout remover and washed it last month, paint is smooth as glass again. Nothing will protect against brake dust completely of course and that's what causes the roughness.
Click to expand...

The QD was used as a lube with water the first time. The second time it was used alone with the clay mitt.
 
That looks amazing. Was the paint just that contaminated? Or was the mitt not aggressive enough to get everything?
 
WillSports3 said:
That looks amazing. Was the paint just that contaminated? Or was the mitt not aggressive enough to get everything?
Click to expand...
Well I didn't do that portion of the detail, the owner did but it had to be a combo of the mit and maybe what was used for clay lube. Ted said previously what he used but because it was so new and came right off of the showroom floor it's a head scratcher nonetheless

Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk
 
The car was purchased new in November 2016, as I understand it sat on the showroom floor for about a month. It sat in my garage, covered, until April. I previously had a 2015 Mustang GT built to order. The day that car came off of the truck it was mine. I did clay that car but it was only slightly contaminated. For some reason this car was worse than expected. Nothing that could not be corrected. Also knowing the car was going to be coated this time we wanted the car to be as perfect as possible.
 
On Saturday I took the time to mask off the car where we did not want polish to fling. This turned out be unnecessary as the Optimum Hyper polish which comes in a spray bottle did not fling at all. Not enough to take the time to mask the car off at least.

Sunday morning came paint correction. There was one imperfection in the left front driver’s fender. I tried to take a pic previous to the repair but the scratch could not be seen. Also there was a scratch in the rear spoiler and the panel between the tail lights. Klasse did his magic and made the marks in the fender and spoiler disappear. The panel between the tail lights was too deep. It was something I noticed when I purchased the car but could not get them to replace it. I was not going to lose a deal which I paid $1,900.00 less than MSRP when many are paying over.

I'm certain Roger will be happy to add what he did to remove these two imperfections and his experience completing the correction. All I can say is the car looks amazing in the garage under florescent lights. The sun has not been out once since this project began. The pics shown are in the garage.

I cannot thank Klasse Act, Roger, enough for all of his work making my baby shine. Without him this would not be possible.

View attachment 56916View attachment 56917View attachment 56918
 
I've never been a big mustang fan, but these new GT350's have really opened my mind to the possibility of owning a Mustang some day.

Looks great!
 
zmcgovern45 said:
I've never been a big mustang fan, but these new GT350's have really opened my mind to the possibility of owning a Mustang some day.

Looks great!
Click to expand...

Thanks, the GT350 is my third and a total beast!!!!
 
For the ceramic coating I utilized Optimum Gloss-Coat Paint Coating, no specific reason. I did not read anything negative and the price was good. It really is a simple process. It is all the work completed previous that makes all the difference and is the most labor intensive. I utilized the applicator and microfiber which were provided. The only thing I caution is to not be afraid to open the nozzle and slowly push the plunger in. It is easy to force the plunger and waste much of the product. After priming the application with maybe a dozen drops each subsequent panel only took a few additional drops. I was able to complete the entire car including wheels twice with 20CC’s of product. Application is simple, you will feel the applicator drag slightly at first then it will smoothly glide over the work area. Once you see it start to flash use the applicator to even the high spots then lightly use the microfiber to completely even each panel out. Use care to not attempt to remove the product, your goal is to even it out and allow it to dry. According to Optimum the car will be ready to drive in an hour and they prefer you do not wash the car for 24 hours. The longer you allow the car to settle and dry the better. Keep in mind the ambient conditions change from location to location day to day. More times than not no two cars will be the same.

I coated the paint and all the plastic trim on the car including the headlights. The product supposedly works well with glass as well. I am not very proficient at cleaning glass and keep in mind whatever you seal will remain. My choice from cleaning exterior glass is Griot’s Garage Glass Polish and Pinnacle GlassCoat Window Sealant with Rain Repellent. First I clean the glass thoroughly with the Griot’s Glass polish. I warn you it dries very flaky and dusty. However, it does not stick to anything, I just blow it off. Then I apply a thin coat of the Pinnacle GlassCoat Window Sealant with Rain Repellent. This product is better than any other I have found on the market and is durable up to a year plus on my daily.

The following pictures of the car coated, the glass had yet to be done. All of this in the garage as the sun has yet to come out since the project began. Ill be certain to post pics while in the sun as well.

View attachment 56936View attachment 56937View attachment 56938View attachment 56939View attachment 56940View attachment 56941View attachment 56942View attachment 56943View attachment 56944View attachment 56945View attachment 56946View attachment 56947View attachment 56948View attachment 56949View attachment 56950View attachment 56951View attachment 56952
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top