303 too greasy

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tru-jack

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OK, I know a lot of people use the 303 as an interior protectant, and I use it a lot on the boat as it's the best UV protection out there. I find it a bit greasy when used on the interior trim. I'm looking for tips on how to apply etc... to minimize the greasy feel and too shiny look. One more 303 question: who uses this on their door seals etc... or is the gummi pfledge a better product for this? (What's the best on the 'felt' material on the window seals? thanks everyone.
 
I only find 303 a little greasy on the smoother plastics. My VW for example, has various textures of plastic. The dash is a soft foamed type which soaks up the 303 nicely and leaves a very minimal residue. However, the center stack is a nice feeling but harder material. This area I have to go back and buff off the residue. I use 303 on the rubber door seals but not the felt. I usually just wipe the felt with a damp MF. The MF is good at grabbing on any lint, hair etc...

Never used the 1Z but I want too. Looks like a solid and easy to use product.
 
I have never found 303 to be greasy at all, its water based product so it shouldnt be. But if you are having trouble just wipe it down with a dry MF towel after you apply to remove any left over residue.
 
I would agree that it is greasy, especially on leather.
 
Meghan said:
I have never found 303 to be greasy at all, its water based product so it shouldnt be. But if you are having trouble just wipe it down with a dry MF towel after you apply to remove any left over residue.
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:iagree: And yes I have used it on door rubber. One of the absolute best for door seals. No grease and will not stick.
A friend of mine sprays his rafts (a whitewater rapid company) with 303 when he puts them away for the winter. He said that they use to stick together badly when he'd unroll them in the spring but not anymore.
 
Check the instructions.
With the exception of tires, 303 is supposed to be buffed for best results.
It is not a WOWA product although many people make the mistake of using it that way.
 
I don't really find it to be that greasy (compared to most), but it does vary depending on the material it's applied to. I always follow up with a dry MF regardless of what interior protectant I use. ;)
 
Some users (myself included) actually dilute 303 with water as it is a water based product. I often use it at 2 parts 303 to1 part water. It gives a bit more of a matte look, but I cant tell you how much if any loss of uv protection there would be.
 
Meghan said:
I have never found 303 to be greasy at all, its water based product so it shouldnt be. But if you are having trouble just wipe it down with a dry MF towel after you apply to remove any left over residue.
Click to expand...
I have never found it to be greasey either.

the best application method it to spray it on your appication media first and then wipe the surface you are dressing.
 
It sounds like you are using too much 303. Try spraying the 303 on a microfiber towel and then wiping the dash with the towel, as opposed to spray 303 directly on the surface.

Or after applying 303, use a dry or damp MF towel to dumb down the grease. For rubber door and window seals, there are a variety of interior quick detailers which work on rubber. 1Z Einszett Cockpit Premium, for example.
 
thanks all, I will apply with a damp microfiber and buff dry with another microfiber. One more question, how do you buff out around the buttons on the radio / dash etc... ?
 
i like to use the small yellow foam wax pads to apply interior protectants., then buff with a dry mf. i use 303 on my door seals, but thats it anymore. it gives me bad headaches for a few days, so i use optimum opti-bond tire shine on the inside now. it is also water based and has uva and uvb protectants. just slightly shinier than 303 and very slick.
 
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