3D Super Citrus as prewash??

MoBenzOwner

MoBenzOwner

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Got a gallon of this stuff and was wondering if anyone had used for a pre-wash. I go through a pretty full paint enhancement twice a year and always used p21s taw. I'm out of that at moment and figure the super citrus might make a pretty suitable replacement. My plan is to:

Super Citrus pre-wash (40:1 dilution) let dwell
May apply with IK foram pro 12
Foam with BH Touchless and handwash
Iron X and pressure rinse
Clay
Polish lightly with Griots Complete Polish
Car Pro Eraser
Apply 2 coats of Griots 3 in 1 Ceramic

Sound like a plan?
 
I haven't used it but I like your plan. :xyxthumbs:
 
I kind of feel silly for just using Griot's 3 in 1 after all that prep. I should probably be using a true coating,lol.
 
I'd skip the pre-wash if it were me.

Assuming this is your personal vehicle and you regularly maintain it, that pre-wash isn't going to do anything to the paint that your Griots polish can't remove.
 
Well it's my wife's car. It's washed regularly, but she only hits the high easy spots. Thats why I come behind her and do the once over twice a year. The bottom panels are a bit rough to the touch, and she never touches the rims or tires, lol. I hit those about 4 times a year. Probably just pre-wash the bottom panels after thinking about your comment. It's wearing Adams Graphene spray coating and she uses Meguiars synthetic spay wax as a drying aid after the weekly wash. 95% of car is in A-1 shape, but the remaining 5% needs attention.
 
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MoBenzOwner said:
I kind of feel silly for just using Griot's 3 in 1 after all that prep. I should probably be using a true coating,lol.
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It can be a tough decision. Griot's 3 in 1 is a nice choice though and you can apply more whenever you want to.
 
I don't understand the whole pre-wash thing on anything that you're going to follow with a polishing. It seems like a complete waste of time and materials to me.

In my eyes, all that is necessary during the washing stage, prior to polishing, is to remove any grit/particulate type contamination. The following steps will certainly take care of everything else, i.e., road film, staining, etc.
 
MoBenzOwner said:
I kind of feel silly for just using Griot's 3 in 1 after all that prep. I should probably be using a true coating,lol.
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Yeah i agree. Why not dabble with can coat evo?

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Don't over look Meg's hybrid coating.......no brainer and it is neck and neck with can coat

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Bosko said:
Don't over look Meg's hybrid coating.......no brainer and it is neck and neck with can coat
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So far so good on my Sierra with Megs HPC. Next week it will be 2 months old and water behavior is still insane. Parked outside 24-7, near trees. NO TOPPERS.

Wifes Durango though will get Cancoat Evo next month.

Chicago winter will put both to the test.
 
2black1s said:
I don't understand the whole pre-wash thing on anything that you're going to follow with a polishing. It seems like a complete waste of time and materials to me.

In my eyes, all that is necessary during the washing stage, prior to polishing, is to remove any grit/particulate type contamination. The following steps will certainly take care of everything else, i.e., road film, staining, etc.
Click to expand...

The pre-wash for me, will be from character line down, basically just the lower panels. This helps (at least me) get that grit and contamination off those areas and soften it up so the hand wash gets it all off. The regular shampoo's I use won't always get all that stuff. I want as much off as possible before I clay so as not to grind into the paint. I could be wrong, but in my mind it's more important to pre-wash because you are going to polish.
 
The Can Coat Evo does look intriguing, as does the Megs HPC. I'll probably use up the 3 in 1 first.
 
MoBenzOwner said:
The pre-wash for me, will be from character line down, basically just the lower panels. This helps (at least me) get that grit and contamination off those areas and soften it up so the hand wash gets it all off. The regular shampoo's I use won't always get all that stuff. I want as much off as possible before I clay so as not to grind into the paint. I could be wrong, but in my mind it's more important to pre-wash because you are going to polish.
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We definitely have a difference of opinion here. Heck, I've polished cars before and still do, without even washing first, let alone a pre-wash... Simply wipe down each panel with a wet towel, or a waterless wash, to remove any particulates and then move on to clay, polish, etc.

Should I induce any additional marring during the wipe down (besides what's already there), who cares? I'm going to polish it anyways.
 
2black1s said:
We definitely have a difference of opinion here. Heck, I've polished cars before and still do, without even washing first, let alone a pre-wash... Simply wipe down each panel with a wet towel to remove any particulates and then move on to clay, polish, etc.

Should I induce any additional marring during the wipe down (besides what's already there), who cares? I'm going to polish it anyways.
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I have done this as well but its usually only in the body shop, where someone had lets say a bumper cover reprayed and then wanted the rest of the vehicle corrected. Id just wipe down the vehicle b4 i start paint correction.

I dont prefer this method though because your not getting the true effect of the fresh shine job since the wheels and wheel wells and such are still dirty. But the customer aint payin for a wash detail lol

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I did read up a bit more on the "new" can coat evo. Went ahead and ordered a can of it and some Gyeon prep.
 
Had a family reunion Saturday so only got part of my prep work accomplished as stated in the OP. I'm down to the clay step, but wife is out running around a bit in the car this morning. To me that means a rinseless wash or QD before I can clay. The Can Coat will be in tomorrow. I'd kind of like to get through the polish step today but also would like to watch my Cardinals play the Braves today. Supposed to have a heat index today of close to 100 degrees. We will see how frisky I get,lol.
 
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