3M Emblem Adhesive: Yr Worse Nightmare

swanicyouth

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A while ago I added a black door protector strip to my SUV to replace the factory blue body colored one that was messed up. It can be seen in these pics running horizontally midway through the door:

napavube.jpg


dutemuza.jpg


Note running boards as well.

It looks just OK IMHO and I couldn't get it perfectly strait. So, I decided to remove it. The strip also dripped dirty water forever when you washed the car, and I knew it must have been filthy behind that strip.

The strip came with adhesive on it - but it wasn't great. So, when I attached it, I supplemented it with this stuff:

ryryquva.jpg


3M Plastic and Emblem Adhesive - it holds like iron. I peeled off the strips to find this mess:

runaza3y.jpg


You can see how dirty under the strip was. I guess the adhesive wasn't sticking 100% across the surface:

u6unupav.jpg


I figured the adhesive would easily come off the paint with Griot's Adhesive Remover, right? Wrong. The factory adhesive was easily removed. The 3M stuff was like removing baked on paint or crazy glue.

I tried the Griots stuff, mineral spirits, compounding, Goo Gone, and a heat gun - nothing was touching this stuff. I tried to compound it off with microfiber - I even added some mineral spirits to the compound. Nothing was evening softening it up. In a moment of desperation I even reached for a RAZOR BLADE. But, I decided that's crazy and not to use it.

I didn't take any pictures of the process, because I was freaking out because I couldn't remove this 3M stuff. Finally, I did find a way to remove this stuff, so, I thought I'd share it here in case anyone runs into this issue.

The way I was FINALLY and SAFELY able to remove this adhesive was soaking it with mineral spirits, heating it with a heat gun until the mineral spirits started to evaporate (smoking off the panel), and then carefully scrubbing it (still using heat gun) with a microfiber applicator soaked in mineral spirits with a blob of compound on it.

I burned my fingers throughout the process with the heat gun. As, if you didn't keep heating while "scrubbing" - it didn't work. It's like it would only work above a certain temperature.

It seems heat and mineral spirits separately wouldn't work - but if the adhesive was quite hot it became more sensitive to mineral spirits and the compound. The adhesive never got soft, it kind of came off in little flakes - like paint would.

So, I was able to finally remove this stuff. Here are some after pics. I also removed the running boards while I was at it - one less thing to clean.

gasygugy.jpg


muvare6y.jpg


New look: no black guards or running boards:

qynu9e7e.jpg


So, my advice to anyone adding any type of emblem to their vehicles would be to stay away from the 3M stuff unless you plan on the emblem being permanent. Luckily, I only used the adhesive sparingly when I applied it. I couldn't imagine if it was slathered all over the place.

Next up, I will be getting the rust fixed you can see in picture #4 around the wheel well.
 
A while ago I added a black door protector strip to my SUV to replace the factory blue body colored one that was messed up. It can be seen in these pics running horizontally midway through the door:




Note running boards as well.

It looks just OK IMHO and I couldn't get it perfectly strait. So, I decided to remove it. The strip also dripped dirty water forever when you washed the car, and I knew it must have been filthy behind that strip.

The strip came with adhesive on it - but it wasn't great. So, when I attached it, I supplemented it with this stuff:


3M Plastic and Emblem Adhesive - it holds like iron. I peeled off the strips to find this mess:



You can see how dirty under the strip was. I guess the adhesive wasn't sticking 100% across the surface:


I figured the adhesive would easily come off the paint with Griot's Adhesive Remover, right? Wrong. The factory adhesive was easily removed. The 3M stuff was like removing baked on paint or crazy glue.

I tried the Griots stuff, mineral spirits, compounding, Goo Gone, and a heat gun - nothing was touching this stuff. I tried to compound it off with microfiber - I even added some mineral spirits to the compound. Nothing was evening softening it up. In a moment of desperation I even reached for a RAZOR BLADE. But, I decided that's crazy and not to use it.

I didn't take any pictures of the process, because I was freaking out because I couldn't remove this 3M stuff. Finally, I did find a way to remove this stuff, so, I thought I'd share it here in case anyone runs into this issue.

The way I was FINALLY and SAFELY able to remove this adhesive was soaking it with mineral spirits, heating it with a heat gun until the mineral spirits started to evaporate (smoking off the panel), and then carefully scrubbing it (still using heat gun) with a microfiber applicator soaked in mineral spirits with a blob of compound on it.

I burned my fingers throughout the process with the heat gun. As, if you didn't keep heating while "scrubbing" - it didn't work. It's like it would only work above a certain temperature.

It seems heat and mineral spirits separately wouldn't work - but if the adhesive was quite hot it became more sensitive to mineral spirits and the compound. The adhesive never got soft, it kind of came off in little flakes - like paint would.

So, I was able to finally remove this stuff. Here are some after pics. I also removed the running boards while I was at it - one less thing to clean.


New look: no black guards or running boards:


So, my advice to anyone adding any type of emblem to their vehicles would be to stay away from the 3M stuff unless you plan on the emblem being permanent. Luckily, I only used the adhesive sparingly when I applied it. I couldn't imagine if it was slathered all over the place.

Next up, I will be getting the rust fixed you can see in picture #4 around the wheel well.

Looks good, thanks for the tip. Welders gloves next time.
 
With any type of body moldings or emblems, 3M tape is the way to go.
 
Glad you found a way to remove the adhesive. :xyxthumbs:

Whenever I'm asked why I use this 3M emblem adhesive...
I always reply: Permanency!

Bob
 
When all else is being a pain in the butt I use the 3M Stripe Off Wheel, it makes quick work of stuff like this and bad pinstriping.
 
With any type of body moldings or emblems, 3M tape is the way to go.
+1
even the non-automotive tape will work for light weight and small emblems and easy to remove with goo gone or 3m adhesive remover.
 
Guess its too late but 3M Adhesive Remover works really well.

Yes, the 3M adhesive remover is formulated to remove 3M adhesive, oddly enough. Synergy!

Yeah, when you're cleaning things or trying to dissolve things, you need to bear in mind how one type of cleaner/solvent will not touch certain things while another will just melt it away.

I learned this when I was a kid and I guy I worked with was trying to remove a coffee ring from a work bench with the degreasing solvent he was using to get oil/grease off the rest of the bench...it didn't do a thing, but a quick wipe with a (water) damp towel took it right off.

Obviously mineral spirits doesn't dissolve 3M adhesive.
 
Off topic but how is your pvc pw wand holder attached to the bucket?
 
Thanks for sharing, it's post as yours that help us when we come around to having the same problem.
 
Off topic but how is your pvc pw wand holder attached to the bucket?


Home made bucket mod. I hate laying stuff on the ground - and I ain't laying it on the car. There is a thread about it on AG someplace.
 
I've been an auto tech for 15 years.

Let me tell you this...


3M IS A GOD AMONG MEN WHEN IT COMES TO ADHESIVES

I once broke a vacuum piece off a plastic intake on a Ford F-150. I nearly crapped myself, because the only way to fix it was to get a new one.

A bodyshop guy looked at it, went to get a double air operated caulking gun, hooked it up, and put some black sealant around the cracked off piece. Held it in place for 30 seconds, and said, "your good to go."

What the hell is that?, i asked.

"Body panel bonding agent. It gives you about 45 seconds working time before the catalyst dries it rock solid."

The part was actually stronger after being repaired then when it was manufactured.

3M also makes a super bad a@@ adhesive remover that would un-glue a building, but its so expensive and for professional bodyshop use that it makes it out of reach for guys like us.
 
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