3M Foam Pads with DA Polisher (Compatible?) + Your detailing guide

M

MartyK

New member
Joined
May 4, 2020
Messages
26
Reaction score
0
3M Foam Pads with DA Polisher (Compatible?) + Your detailing guide



Hi there Mike

Thanks for accepting me onto this forum.

First of all whats your latest book on detailing?

Do you have both a book including pictures along with an included DVD? (I live in Australia so preferably a digital copy)

Also I just wanted to know about compatibility of 3M pads and DA Polishers.

I have a DA but not a Rotary Polisher.

I just ordered a UK kit of the 3M perfect It III system which the compound is called Fast Cut Pro (Green lid) the other was the Fine Compound (Yellow lid) then I think the other was the finer polish which is the blue lid.

So as you probably know all the foam pads match to lid colours.

These foam pads have Velcro backing so it looks as though it would be universal to fit on DA Polishers.

Do you have experience or have you tested out any 3M foam pads on a DA polisher?

Want to use the 3M pads but don't really want to have to fork out on a rotary just to use them.

Thanks Mike
 
MartyK said:
Hi there Mike

Thanks for accepting me onto this forum.

First of all whats your latest book on detailing?

Do you have both a book including pictures along with an included DVD? (I live in Australia so preferably a digital copy)
Click to expand...


First - welcome to AutogeekOnline! :welcome:

I need to update all of my books. It's INCREDIBLY time consuming to TYPE out a book. Heck, it's almost 10:00am this May 4th, Monday morning. I logged into the forum at a little befor 9:00am and after removing spammers, approving real people, (like you), I then answered a new guys questions about single stage paint in a Private Message, (I really hate answering questions in Private Messages because I'm typing out in-depth info for only one set of eyeballs), and then I invested some company time trying to help this new member out,


In my replies in this one thread, I have 4 post and share 8 LINKS to more INFO - not a big deal, but I can do this all day on the forum and there's no typing-time left to update a book, at least not here at work during work hours.

Need Some Help with the Waxing Process


I also have about 50 to 70 more new product reviews to write this year. That's a LOT of GARAGE TIME detailing actual cars so I can write REAL FACTUAL information about the products and how to use them. I don't do Mock-up.


But yeah, I would love to write updated versions for all these books,

  1. The Complete Guide to a Show Car Shine
  2. The RUPES BigFoot Paint Polishing SYSTEM
  3. How to use the FLEX XC 3401 VRG
  4. How to Detail Boats


Since writing the above there's been so many new tools, pads and products introduced.

And "yes" - this time around, all of these books should be E-books or Ibooks.


It's all about typing-time. :)


MartyK said:
Also I just wanted to know about compatibility of 3M pads and DA Polishers.

I have a DA but not a Rotary Polisher.

I just ordered a UK kit of the 3M perfect It III system which the compound is called Fast Cut Pro (Green lid) the other was the Fine Compound (Yellow lid) then I think the other was the finer polish which is the blue lid.

So as you probably know all the foam pads match to lid colours.

These foam pads have Velcro backing so it looks as though it would be universal to fit on DA Polishers.

Do you have experience or have you tested out any 3M foam pads on a DA polisher?

Want to use the 3M pads but don't really want to have to fork out on a rotary just to use them.

Thanks Mike
Click to expand...


Are these FLAT pads or the convoluted waffle pad design?


Can you share a picture?


:)
 
I did some searching and found it must be really hard for people to take GREAT pictures to showcase new products? :dunno:


Here's a TINY pic I found showing your pads and products

3Msystem.JPG



The pads are 150mm in diameter which is about 6" in U.S. Standard measurements and "yes" this size will work on most free spinning random orbital polishers.


When it comes to free spinning random orbital polishes, like the Porter Cable 7424XP - and just about any 8mm free spinning polishing in the WORLD is a copy of this polisher. Then here's two articles I just shared with the other guy this morning.


5.5" SUPER THIN FOAM PAD OPTIONS for your Dual Action Polisher



Super thin 5.5" foam buffing pads

watermark.php





And NOTE this article I wrote back in 2010 is when the FIRST THIN FOAM pads were introduced - so it's dated but still accurate in the BIG PICTURE and that is THIN pads spin better than THICK pads on short stroke free spinning random oribital polishers.


Thin is in...

NewHydroTech01.jpg


NewHydroTech02.jpg




:)
 
What polisher do you have?

DAS6 ? Or a Variant?


These are like the old Griot's G6 and in my experience powerful.

When it comes to pad design, it's real simple.

Flat pads are best.

Anytime you introduce a design to the face of the pad you introduce a potential problem.

I was calling on body shops in the late 1980s when 3M "invented" their convuloted waffle pads and I said they were a bad idea back then and I stand by that today.


BUT - if that's what you have to work with - then go with it. They will work, it's just you don't need that funky camera-case foam style pad for any reason that makes sense to buff out FLAT body panels.


:laughing:
 
Mike Phillips said:
What polisher do you have?

DAS6 ? Or a Variant?


These are like the old Griot's G6 and in my experience powerful.

When it comes to pad design, it's real simple.

Flat pads are best.

Anytime you introduce a design to the face of the pad you introduce a potential problem.

I was calling on body shops in the late 1980s when 3M "invented" their convuloted waffle pads and I said they were a bad idea back then and I stand by that today.


BUT - if that's what you have to work with - then go with it. They will work, it's just you don't need that funky camera-case foam style pad for any reason that makes sense to buff out FLAT body panels.


:laughing:
Click to expand...


Hi Mike

I just literally 5 mins ago purchased this:

Shine Mate 15mm Polisher

– Waxit Car Care

I am sure with your experience and knowledge in the industry you are no doubt familiar with these. Here in Australia we are very limited with brands like Gruits, Flex, Porter Cable and Meguiars DA polishers.

I'll give you a bit of an idea of what I am doing. I am not a professional I am just someone at home trying to repair damage I very stupidly done to my car bonnet (Hood). Basically what happened was my Dad was emptying to paint gun outside after painting the house walls. Wind took the paint residue quite a distance and it landed on my silver car. The car got covered in white paint. I could not egt it off with hot soapy water and a soft cloth so I very silly and used a dish scourer to remove it.. yes it removed it.. and scratched the hell out of it.

I was then advised by a friend in the USA to purchase the 3M scratch removal system. These are 3" pads which hook onto a household drill. The kit comes with a purple waffle pad (for the 3M compound) then a black softer polishing pad for the 3M Scratch removing liquid. Also a very small square of Trizact 3000 grit foam sand paper.This liquid is supplied in very small quantities and I was not able to do the whole hood.

The scratches were very deep so I had to sand like crazy... literally 10 minutes per 20cm by 20cm in order to rid the deep scratches.. However even though I have compounded it and buffed it I am still left with very fine swirls!

So this has prompted me to get a bit obsessed and buy loads of things to try and resolve the issue. So far I have purchased:

That polisher I showed you (It takes 6 inch foam pads)
Chemical guys VSS scratch and swirl remover
Chemical guys Hexlogic Orange Pad
Lake Country Microfibre cutting pad
Lake Country White Foam polishing pad.
Meguiars Microfibre cutting pad.
Meguiars Red Foam compounding pad.
3M Rubbing Compound (8 oz bottle)
3M Scratch Remover (8 oz bottle)
3M Trizact single sheet of 3000 grit sandpaper.
3M 1500 Grit and 3000 Grit sandpaper 3 inch pads to fit a house hold drill
A load of Meguiars detailing cloths and towels.
Meguiars Ultimate Compound
Meguiars Ultimate Polish
Chemical Guys medium duty clay bar.
Chemical Guys Clay Luber.
Meguiars applicator hand pads
Meguiars microfibre application pads
Pack of 3 3M little 3 inch foam pads which include Coarse, fine and ultra fine (These all go on a house hold drill) with the backing plate.
Meguiars Ultra Cut Compound 105
Possibly may end up buying the Perfect it III system which comes with pads in the 6 inch size and includes 3M Fast Cut compound, Yellow ultra fine compound and blue for the final polish. But only if you think its necessary

So out of ALL of the above what would you recommend me to use to get the remaining swirls out the hood?
Would you suggest any additional things to use or chemicals?

Thanks for the detailed replies Mike.

I am sticking with buying 6 inch pads and I have found out the polisher I have purchased suits those pads.

Hope this gives you a better idea of everything. Just really want to get the hood up to how it was before I went mental with the dish scourer.
 
Hi Mike I tried to reply earlier but it wouldn't go through
 
I am gonna type it all out again I wrote loads.

So it all started with my Dad emptying the paint gun outside (The paint gun used to paint indoor house walls which was water based) it ended up all over my car and I panicked and tried very hot water with a soft cloth but it did not clean it off.

I then very stupidly used a dish wash scourer which scratched the hell out of the paint.

I then ended up ordering the '3M Scratch Removal System' in this kit included a Square Foam Pad of 3M 3000 Grit, 3M Purple Waffle Compounding Pad, Black 3M Polishing Pad (All these are 3") and 2 fluids. 1 was the rubbing compound and the other was the scratch removal for after.

It did help but I was still left with a lot of mini swirls.

I have invested a hell of a lot including the purchase of this which was done today: Shine Mate 15mm Polisher

– Waxit Car Care

Here in Aus we are quite limited for polishers such as the Porter Cable, Griots, Meguiars DA etc

I am very keen to know your ideas on shifting these remaining swirls.. Some are quite deep others are not.

In my collection so far I have these:
2 Meguiars Microfibre Cutting Discs
1 Hexlogic Chemical Guys Orange Pad
Chemical Guys VSS Swirl Remover
Chemical Guys Medium Duty Clay Bar
Clay Luber
8oz bottle of 3M Rubbing Compound
8oz Bottle of 3M Scratch Remover
1 Single Sheet of 3M 3000 Grit Trizact
Meguiar's Ultimate Compound
Meguiars Ultimate Polish
Meguiars Microfibre Hand Applicators
3M 3" 1500 & 3000 grit sanding pads for household drill
Meguiars M205 Ultra Finishing Polish
Meguiars M100 Pro Speed Compound
Lake Country Microfibre Cutting Disc Pad
Lake Country White Polishing Foam Pad



Do I have enough products here to achieve what I need or is there anything else you can suggest?

What would be your procedure in order to remove the swirls?

The Car is quite new. It is a Silvery Grey Hyundai Sonata.

Thanks so much Mike
 
MartyK said:
In my collection so far I have these:
2 Meguiars Microfibre Cutting Discs
1 Hexlogic Chemical Guys Orange Pad
Chemical Guys VSS Swirl Remover <-- You can start with this but don't try to finish with it.
Chemical Guys Medium Duty Clay Bar
Clay Luber
8oz bottle of 3M Rubbing Compound
8oz Bottle of 3M Scratch Remover
1 Single Sheet of 3M 3000 Grit Trizact
Meguiar's Ultimate Compound <-- These use great abrasive technology - I'd use these
Meguiars Ultimate Polish <-- These use great abrasive technology - I'd use these
Meguiars Microfibre Hand Applicators

3M 3" 1500 & 3000 grit sanding pads for household drill <-- DON'T SAND WITH A DRILL - IT'S CALLED GRINDING.

Meguiars M205 Ultra Finishing Polish <-- These use great abrasive technology - I'd use these
Meguiars M100 Pro Speed Compound <-- These use great abrasive technology - I'd use these
Lake Country Microfibre Cutting Disc Pad
Lake Country White Polishing Foam Pad
Click to expand...


I made some notes to the above. My only comment about the CG abrasive products is the majority of time someone joins this forum asking for help removing micro-marring is after they use products that don't use the best in abrasive technology. This isn't limited to CG products, so do your research before buying any compounds, polishes or cleaner/waxes.







MartyK said:
Do I have enough products here to achieve what I need or is there anything else you can suggest?

What would be your procedure in order to remove the swirls?

The Car is quite new. It is a Silvery Grey Hyundai Sonata.

Thanks so much Mike
Click to expand...


First - When you use a drill or a rotary buffer to sand paint it's not longer called sanding - it's called GRINDING.

Don' do it.


You can sand by hand with the Triazact or use a free spinning random orbital polisher. This is one of the articles I've written that I share the MOST on the Interweb.

Clearcoats are thin by Mike Phillips



Just how thin is the clear layer of paint on a factory paint job?

The factory clearcoat on a new or modern car measures approximately 2 mils thin.

The average post-it not is around 3 mils thin.

watermark.php





So tread carefully when sanding factory thin paint - especially horizontal surfaces as these get tortured by the SUN and this is were clearcoat failure happens first.


If it were me, I would get the most aggressive pad you have and the Meguiar's M100 and start working small sections at FULL SPEED on your Max Shine, about 16" by 16" - which is the size of most common microfiber towels.

Do around 12 section passes and then inspect.


Let me know what you see?


And by the way, if the famous words of Bill Clinton, former U.S. President,

I feel your pain


If the words of Mike Phillips - Blue Collar Working Class Dog (woof woof)

I feel your paint



:)
 
And just and idea :idea:



Have you tried using Paint Thinner or Lacquer Thinner to dissolve the overspray paint on the car?

Of some other paint related solvent?


Maybe start first by finding out the exact type of overspray paint your Dad used and go to the store where he purchased it, take the can of paint he used with you.

Find a KNOWLEDGEABLE store staff member explain what happened and ask them if they sell any product for cleaning paint off of paint brushes that might work on your car?

It's possible you might be able to dissolve some or all of the overspray paint using a solvent versus the approach you're about to undertake.


This is keeping with the best practice,


Use the least aggressive process to get the job done



:)
 
You are extremely helpful Mike. Can see why you have got to where you have. Your answers are really well laid out and made in such a good way for me to be able to understand them. Sorry lol all my posts have come hammering their way through now!

Will print out all of what you said as it'll no doubt come in useful for when I am actually doing it.

Really wish I could have bought things like the Porter Cable, Griots etc but I think the USA have different voltage to here in Australia which is a shame!

I will definitely keep you updated and will try to take as good a photo as I can. The sun in QLD is probably quite similar to Florida we are in the other Sunshine state and quite often its so bright it dazzles you when you look at the paint work! You have to wait until late afternoon to really spot the defects. So i'll try and get some photos after doing the work too

Thanks again Mike

From Mart.
 
MartyK said:
You are extremely helpful Mike.

Can see why you have got to where you have.

Your answers are really well laid out and made in such a good way for me to be able to understand them.

From Mart.
Click to expand...


Thanks Marty,

I appreciate the compliment. Writing in a way someone can read what you write and then go out into their garage and do the thing you explain how to do is a writing art form, in my opinion.

It's also why I think you see more detailers make YouTube videos instead of writing how-to articles. It's a heck of a lot easier to just stand and talk. Doesn't always mean your talking is "good", it's just being able to do BOTH requires 2 skill sets, not just 1 skill set.

Check out these two articles too,


Wetsanding removes paint - Compounding removes paint - Polishing removes a little paint

When to stop buffing - Or - How far should you go to remove swirls and scratches?



:)
 
Yes also just to add something.

Paint thinners did work the actual paint but when dabbed very, very lightly. I wish I had done that before using the scourer. However I did use paint thinners on the plastic door pillar trims if you know what I mean?
Over spray had ended up on those and when I used paint thinners it got rid of the surface of it and totally faded them.
Bought some 'Wurth Plastic Dye' which was incredibly expensive which has just about finished them off (Made them look AWFUL)
So not quite sure what to do about those? I wondered a complete sand down and a spray in some special black paint? possibly?
Just so you know what area I am talking about please see the attached image. I outlined the area in red.

Thanks again Mike
 
Mike Phillips said:
It's also why I think you see more detailers make YouTube videos instead of writing how-to articles. It's a heck of a lot easier to just stand and talk. Doesn't always mean your talking is "good", it's just being able to do BOTH requires 2 skill sets, not just 1 skill set.
Click to expand...

So true. We are so lucky now in this day and age to access such vast amounts of information with the click of a mouse!

Thanks for those guides you sent on your last post I will take a look
 
Hi Mike

Yes thats right it is those. However mine are different surface. Its quite hard to explain... I may get a photo sent later to show you.

It now has a new surface with the Wurth Plastic Dye but it looks really bad. The surface now looks like its been gone over with a paint brush with a coating of wall paint lol.

I think if I send you a photo it will give you a much better idea of what needs doing because its a different surface to most door pillar exterior trims... will get a photo up on the next post.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top