3m products with a DA

ShawnF350

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Hello everyone, I am new to the forum. I have a few bottles which I bought years ago when I had a Milwaukee rotary. I was afraid of the rotary power so I only used it a few times.
Can 3M perfect it foam polishing pad glaze 05996 and perfect it II rubbing compound 05973 be used with a Griot's DA? These are black bottled 32 oz. Or should I pass these on to a rotary user.?
In the spring, I bought a 2010 ford edge dark ink blue with moderate swirls. I tried Griot's #3 polish which didn't remove much so I just used Griot's sealant. Now I have Griot's polish 1-4. So I'm going to give it another try.
Anyone have any Suggestions?
 
I actually have talked to the 3m rep for the body shop i work at about this. He said that the 3m stuff would work fine. The only draw back is that the da may need more time to break the polish down. I have never used any of the griots polishes but if they're not doing it and you don't want try the 3m I highly recommend either m105 or m85 for heavy corrections followed by m205 or try menzerna polishes. I found m85 to be better for heavy corrections but the menzerna compound finishes really well and a mild swirl remover will finish it off.
 
Thanks, I guess I maybe going with that if the griots can't do the job.
I used NXT for a while now. I wanted to try the ultimate wax but read a few complaints of smearing. So I have a bottle of Collinite 845 I'm hoping with the DA I can spread nicely.
Any suggestions on a long lasting wax or Sealant? I
I was considering pinnacle souveran but a bit costly. I read about poor boys natty blue a bit more in my range.
I also only have Griot's pads.... Red.. Orange polishing and the new black. Maybe I will have to select different pads for swirl removal.
 
I don't personally have any experience with griots pads, however so long as they have some sort of coarse pad you should be fine, however if you are looking into getting new pads I use lake country's orange white and red for almost anything. As for the wax, I've heard nothing but good things about 845, however I'm more of a paste wax person for my own car. For liquids I like to use poorboys sealant and/or liquid natty's blue. For my own car I've started to venture into botique type products. I used to use surf city's paste, but I recently picked up dodo blue velvet and pinnacle sig series 2, and for the money, you can't beat either. I know they're a little expensive but with autogeek's sales I got the dodo around 55-60 and the sig series around 40 and they are well worth it. The dodo smells really good and I actually enjoy using it. As for longevity, it really depends on how well you clay your car, I would actually recommend the megs blue and then a fine one to use every once in a while. What you use to wash it will make a big difference too. There are some good retail (otc) available washes like zymol, but Optimum and DP washes are my new go to. Just remember not to over dilute them because that's what will destroy the wax. I've used many otc waxes and they all last around two months if you treat them well. The wax you choose is really in how you like to apply it and your price range. For under 20 I recommend finishkare pink or natty's, however within a reasonable budget I would buy sig series 2 again if I could only pick one. The looks and ease of use are really worth it.
 
The back of all the 3M Pro products state the products are use with a rotary buffer.

While they may work with a dual action motion, if it were me I would do a test spot first and make sure you're getting the results you hope and dream about before running the polisher over the entire car.



How To Do a Test Spot
(and why it's so important)



I do a test spot on EVERYTHING I work on. I did a test spot on the 1936 Ford Roadster we buffed out last night...

Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_001.jpg




And we did a Test Spot on the 1969 AMC AMX before we sanded down the entire car...



Wetsanding a car from start to finish - Time Lapse Video


This was the test spot, we hand sanded, machine sanded, machine compounded and machine polished to prove our process before sanding and buffing the entire car...

AMX_Wetsanding_Daves_Camera003.jpg



:xyxthumbs:
 
Actually the bottles only say for use with an air or electric buffer. The bottles are probably 20 years old. I always cleaned the lids well. Hopefully they aren't expired. I just use them for removing blems by hand so maybe I will keep them for that, unless you tell me to dispose of them.
 
If they work fine by hand I wouldn't throw them out. However i do suggest using your griots polishes and if they don't work invest in new (i just wouldn't risk it with the 3m). You can get m105 and 205 for under 70 and you can get the menzerna intro kit for closer to 60 so if the griots don't get your result it's really reasonable to invest in new. Also when trying new things I like to have a junk panel to test on. If you're not comfortable look for a used hood or fender somewhere preferably black to experiment with like Mike said, use test spots, get your technique down and then move on to your car. Oh and if you are working outside look into poorboys or xmt polishing kits. They're usually around 100 pads and all.
 
Actually the bottles only say for use with an air or electric buffer. The


And I'm going to guess that in the context of the label directions and the time period these products were available that the words, air or electric buffer both mean rotary buffers.


Here's what you do, shake them up really well and do a "Test Spot" and then carefully inspect the results.


If the results look great!
Then simply duplicate the same process you did to the test spot to the rest of the car. If you can make one small area look good then you should be able to make the rest of the car looks good.


If the results don't look great?
Then come back here and post what you're seeing and we'll do our best to see you through to success...


:)
 
In regards to the product's shelf lives, I had some of the exact same products change in a period of aboout 6-7 years. The glaze became quite difficult to remove.

Stopped right then on a small panel, bought a new bottle and the differences of workability between old and new were not subtle.
Mark
 
In the spring, I bought a 2010 ford edge dark ink blue with moderate swirls. I tried Griot's #3 polish which didn't remove much so I just used Griot's sealant. Now I have Griot's polish 1-4. So I'm going to give it another try.
Anyone have any Suggestions?


If the #3 didn't remove the swirls to your satisfaction, then test the #2 followed by the #1


From this page...

Griot's Garage Set of 4 Machine Polishes, Griots Garage Car Polishes, Auto Polishes, swirl removers



Griot's Garage Polishes Include:


16 oz. Griot's Garage Machine Polish 1
Griot's Garage Machine Polish 1 is an medium grade swirl remover for moderate to severe paint imperfections. Designed to be used with an orbital polisher, Griot's Garage Machine Polish 1 breaks down under less pressure so it doesn't create any new swirls. Griot's Garage Machine Polish 1 is a safer way to remove swirls and scratches.


16 oz. Griot's Garage Machine Polish 2
Griot's Garage Machine Polish 2 is a mild polish for light swirl and scratch removal using an orbital polisher. With fewer solvents and shrinking abrasives, Griot's Garage Machine Polish 2 is a gentle approach to paint correction that leaves the paint smooth, shiny, and swirl-free.


16 oz. Griot's Garage Machine Polish 3
Griot's Garage Machine Polish 3 is a very mild polish designed to remove light paint imperfections and restore a showroom shine when applied with an orbital polisher. This mild formula breaks down into smaller and smaller polishing agents to leave the smoothest possible finish. Use Griot's Garage Machine Polish 3 as a finishing polish or an any-time shine-enhancing polish


16 oz. Griot's Garage Machine Polish 4
Griot's Garage Machine Polish 4 is an ultra-fine polish created for those very light swirl marks found on new vehicles. Use Griot's Garage Machine Polish 4 on dark paints in particular to create a rich, deep shine. This is the finest polish in Griot's Machine Polish line.


Be sure to read through this article if you haven't already...


How To Do a Test Spot
(and why it's so important)


:xyxthumbs:
 
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